"[...] the way it was meant to be done"

For me, calling a BBS will always be a modem and modem tones. I would like this more if there was a way to open a TCP connection directly to the BBS and somehow do v.32bis tones over IP. This would constrain the connection to actual modem speeds and wouldn't require a PSTN line or a VoIP provider. It would be similar to VoIP except using a codec that was specifically designed to make those legacy modulation schemes work. Ideally, this wouldn't require a real modem but if you could use a real modem and a FXS device, that would be sweet, too.