It's messy but it works, if that bothers you then you should read about how inefficient compilers can be.
What matters here is reliability -- the device runs without being attended, and needs to keep working otherwise data gets lost / doesn't get collected. These researchers don't really have the inclination to faff around with designing a DC-DC converter system, they're trying to study IMSI catchers!
Were this to be made an actual polished product or deployed in an environment (like in a UAV) where weight/loss matters, I'm sure that someone could design a DC-DC conversion system that's tolerant of the nasty transients on automobile 12V bus and also supplies all needed voltages, without any needless conversions.
What's missing on this setup imho is a) a solid power connection (those 12V sockets are known for being loose because of wildly varying manufactoring tolerance) and b) the lack of a supercap+diode setup to prevent brownouts during engine start.
Most 12v-targeted electronics are good to about 30v transients. The DC-DC converters would likely be no more or less susceptible than the DC-AC inverter used here. Just quieter, smaller, and more efficient.