The essence, I believe, is
>Bottom line: To study the Weil conjectures, you have to think very hard about the subtle properties of curves, surfaces and higher-dimensional objects. When you do this, you find yourself mentally “moving around” the curve, trying to hop from point to point. And — in a sense that I cannot hope to make precise here — you sometimes find that your mental exploration is hampered by the fact that there somehow aren’t enough points to hop to.
>So life would be easier if these curves (and other objects) had more points. A normal person might say “Well, life’s not always easy. We’ll just have to get by somehow with the points we’ve got”. But Grothendieck lived by the conviction that everything is easy if you look at it right — which means there have got to be enough points. And if we think there aren’t, it must be because we haven’t yet figured out what a point is.
I don't think I'm closer to understanding what it is he was working on after reading it, at least not in a meaningful sense, but it is fascinating to me to read about.
[0] http://www.thebigquestions.com/2014/11/17/the-generalist/