I quite like the paper. I once wrote a follow-up paper about how one might interpret it now that we know about neuroplasticity. That was fun to ponder.
I looked at a specific experiment where researchers managed to map visual impulses from a camera to an electrode "pixel grid" physically placed on the tongue, such that the visual inputs were "mapped" to corresponding locations on your tongue. It was shown, in the research, that people could catch balls thrown at them blindfolded using this setup, and after a relatively short period of sensory adjustment. They would actually "see with their tongue".
You can read about that research in this 2003 article from Discover Magazine:
http://discovermagazine.com/2003/jun/feattongue
The Nagel question then, is the fact that I experience vision a certain way really an essential aspect of "what it's like to be me?" Or is my consciousness a "further fact"... something running in the background of all my senses, no matter how they are wired (or rewired) over time? This is sometimes referred to as the "hard problem" of consciousness, summarized nicely in Wikipedia here: