The export and installation of pre-made Irish bars
eater.com
eater.com
Sure, in an ideal world the bar would have its own completely genuine charm, and would be handmade, and the carvings would be whittled by the owner's son... but this strikes me as a pretty good compromise given the harsh realities of starting a new pub/restaurant.
IT's like visiting a Panda Express and feeling like you've been to China. As an actual Irish person it's nauseating and I'm ashamed of whatever one of my countrymen decided to make money out of this tacky fakery.
We do have a hospitable tradition in Ireland I'm proud of that, and I don't see anything wrong with starting a business on the back of that. It's the fakery that upsets me; it presents culture as something to be consumed rather than experienced, which is especially irritating given Ireland's former colonial status..
Spotting and calling out "insta-pubs" was one of my hobbies in the US rust belt. It was one of the more profitable things to do with an old gas station in the late 90's/early 2000's, apparently. This led to some incongruous moments. I was in a musical group playing a regular thing at a very fancy insta-pub in Covington, KY. Our band leader was born in Ireland, but his college professor dad had moved to Atlanta, Georgia when he was just 13 or so, but he defiantly tried his best to keep his accent and not talk like he was from Georgia. Since the pub was new, it was staffed by a lot of native born Irish. So it came to pass that a young woman from the staff accused our Irish born band leader of faking his Irish accent.
(No one on the staff commented much on my being a Korean-American playing Irish traditional music, however.)
especially irritating given Ireland's former colonial status
Musician and professor Mick Moloney has often commented on the "reversed colonialism" of Irish traditional music and culture. It also applies to a lot of other traditional cultures. The past several hundred years of Irish culture can be characterized by various forms of destruction, warping, and rebirth/resurgence of cultural forms. (One could joke that the 78 record did a better job of destroying regional diversity than Cromwell, but not be too far from the truth.) That Irish traditional music should be in pubs at all could be taken as a bit of a cultural distortion, actually.
The ones they talk about in this article seem to at least be slightly decent: they at least have stuff handmade in Ireland by Irish people. That takes a certain degree of commitment that's at the very least more authentic than a Panda Express.
I think what it boils down to is that people want to go to a "foreign" bar, and Ireland is a nice target. So at the end of the day -somebody- will open one, and you have a choice between this (which is at the least handmade in Ireland) vs some monstrosity decorated with dollar store shamrocks and green accent lighting.
In Cincinnati in the 90's, Hap's Old Irish Pub sometimes had such decorations, but stopped short of the green accent lighting. Ironically, it was arguably the most authentic pub, in that it came about organically to serve locals of Irish descent. As a result, most of the customers had little interest in Irish trad music and much more in the game on the TV.
I suspect there are a lot of bars of this pattern in the US. I know of one in SF.
We do pretty much the same thing here. Most new-build pubs try to ape the traditional. The only thing this company is adding is a middle-man so you can import it all in one shot, rather than dealing with a myriad of vendors.
I realise it plays to the plastic-paddy stereotypes perfectly. But the nerd in me sees it as a simple solution to a logistical problem.
and where's the feckin' darts how are we gonna make friends without a glass game
Of course in a more post modern vein: how do you know the customers aren't in on the joke?
That is a serious question. What is it?
When I was in Dublin the thing that really surprised me was how every bar.. er... pub had these amazing Irish musicians who sort of picked up various instruments and just went at it. I would identify it as "irish folk music" though if they were belting out lesser known Richard Thompson tunes, I would not know.
Were they paid? Did they carry their instruments with themselves? Who knows.
Now, I consider that authentic. Was it authentic? Do Irish people read this and think "he was stuck in that tourist trap area" or do they think "yup, that's good 'ol homestyle music"?
And can we reproduce that here?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Irish_traditional_music_sessio...
Good question. Probably an accumulation of our experience of a 'third place'. I like family run Italian cafes and restaurants. There are a few in Birmingham, I was in a very nice one in Liverpool a couple of weeks ago, and there are lots (still, just about) in London.
You could probably define a script that would reproduce a typical interior, and you could probably build a reasonable facsimile of a family run Italian cafe in a shopping centre easily enough. But I would not have been eating there for 30 years...
There's a bar in Queens that has a killer session Sunday nights (there are dozens at other bars in NYC throughout the week). It drives me insane but during football season, they cancel the session if the Giants or Jets are on TV. Alas, at least 2x as many people show up for football as for music.
Go elsewhere, you'll hear pick-up country jams, playing the classics. Or hip-hop, or slam poetry, or Irish music, or bebop.
A big part of what makes something like Irish session music, bluegrass, protest folk, bop, blues, etc work is a powerful shared vocabulary. There are songs everyone knows, and musical clichés that experienced performers can follow even if they don't know the specific tune. You like to play, you join the community, you get good, you get respected, and darn it, there's a bunch of people willing to actually listen to you while they drink a beer. For a lot of us, that's the reward.
"I used to think I was an artist. Turns out I'm a beer salesman." -James McMurtry
There are exceptions: New York City has a very high density of people from different countries. It's possible to walk around Flushing NY (part of Queens) and sit down at a completely genuine Chinese restaurant, where you will be given a menu with either a highly questionable English translation or none at all. Everything you will be surrounded with, from the language to the people to the decor, will be Chinese, and it will be a very authentic experience, and I personally love it.
But that can only happen where there's a dense population of Chinese people. It can happen in Flushing, where the population is 71% Asian. But it cannot happen in most of the US, where the local population is mostly homogeneous.
That's why bars like this are in demand.
"There's a county map to go on the wall, A hurling stick & a shinty ball, The bric, the brac, the craic & all, Lets call it an Irish pub, Caffreys, Harp, Kilkenny on tap, The Guinness pie & that cabbage crap, The ideal wannabee Paddy trap, We'll call it an Irish pub"
Even more surprising was that many of them had a cocktail called a 'Carbomb' which they thought I'd find amusing. Pity I didn't have one called 'Wheelbarrow' in response.
Eventually we found a pub in Chicago called Celtic Crossing without adornments and with a Belfast barman who sold Club Orange fizzy-juice and Tayto crisps. Bliss.
So corned-beef and cabbage is an Irish-American tradition, but not an Irish one.
American Tourist in an Irish pub in Ireland: I'll have two Irish Carbombs please!
Bartender: No problem, coming right up!
Bartender: Sets down two tall shot glasses filled with vodka, then knocks them over.
Tourist: What the hell man!?
Bartender: Oh I'm sorry, I must have mixed up your order. Didn't you order a 9/11?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_and_Tans
"... In the summer of 1920, the Black and Tans burned and sacked many small towns and villages in Ireland, beginning with Tuam in County Galway in July 1920 and also including Trim, Balbriggan, Knockcroghery, Thurles and Templemore amongst many others. In November 1920, the Tans "besieged" Tralee in revenge for the IRA abduction and killing of two local RIC men. They closed all the businesses in the town, let no food in for a week and shot dead three local civilians. ..."
The carbomb drink always seemed like a WTF to me. I wondered how people from Ireland felt about it.
...or Fanta? :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDTQQWSmo8s
(Over 26 million views -- impressive.)
Just thought I would define the word since I think the OP went out of his way to use a 10-dollar word buried deep in the text that wasn't in the original title.
On the subject of the article, though: next you're going to tell me the Mexican cantina I visited in Milwaukee isn't actually as authentic as the name implies! At least I know Little Bangkok in Philadelphia is the genuine thing. Right?
Some of them have the first and last (Beer Market near Christchurch comes to mind), but none have quite managed the shuffleboard.
I was in Ireland for the college football game at Avia last September and my hoppy beer loving friends took up residence there for the couple of days that we were in Dublin. Great place.
Another thing I've seen in a number of Wisconsin taverns and dive bars: small beer glasses that hold ~10oz (300ml) max that they give you with your bottle of beer.
This sounds terrifying I don't want a dart to fall on my head!
Every 'Mexican' restaurant around here has the same furniture, menus, plates. It all has the exact same hand-painted looking Mexican caricatures and scenes on it it. So tacky.
That is my number one favorite I've been drinking since the first time I had amazing fish and chips in howth at beeshoffs.
Second what reallllly irritates me is the food they serve in these "Irish" pubs. Mac and cheese with Guinness in the cheese sauce, or really dumb crimes like calling cottage pie, shepherds pie even though it's made with beef. And absolutely none of them knowing WHAT traditional Irish food is. No soda bread, no coddle, no Apple snow, just ignorance upon ignorance piled on to stealing "Irish culture" by people with money and NO respect for the country they are trying to imitate. I find it appalling and I ream these places in Yelp reviews.
Regarding cuisine, on the bright side I also haven't seen soggy chips with a mountain of vaguely garlic scented mayo plopped on top exported to other countries as an example of Irish cuisine. The first time I had those I really missed Gordon Biersch :-).
There's some good food here (cheeses come to mind) but I think there's a reason the cuisine hasn't exactly been recognized by UNESCO, unlike Italy, France, or Mexico.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UNESCO_Intangible_Cultural_Her...
It's different for, say, wine, because the economics are weird (the economics of grape growing and terroir in particular) and even with an ~2x markup from import and shipping you can grab a random $12 bottle of (say) Spanish wine and there's a very good chance it'll be a hell of a lot better than a random Californian at the same price point, plus, ignoring questions of quality, there's going to be significant demand for (especially) French wine for reputation and signaling reasons. European protection/assurance of production processes probably aids consumer confidence in European versus new-world wine, too, especially on the lower end.
Beer? I can get some damn good $10 US-made 4-packs. I've had some really wonderful $5 bombers. Good luck competing with that after the cost of importing, unless you've got something incredibly special.
On the bright side, I got in to homebrewing because I really, really missed Arrogant Bastard. Now I can actually buy it here in Ireland (Stone started exporting it, and opened a brewery in Berlin), but at €6 for a 330ml bottle it's definitely something I only have as a treat.
I'm not talking about shipping cases of beer from San Francisco to Chicago and selling them at EWR. I'm talking about selling individual bottles at SFO and SJC.
More airports could use something like this: http://www.stonebrewing.com/visit/outposts/airport
Which is precisely why I want this to be a thing. I want a friend who is flying out of Minneapolis–Saint Paul International Airport to be able to get through security, pick up a bottle of something from a small brewery in Minnesota, get off in Boston, and bring me a beer I'd otherwise never be able to try.
Also beer doesn't travel nearly as well as wine.
[0] For example there was an article some time ago detailing plans RyanAir had for offering free flights. They (and the airports I presume) would make money from the things passengers buy at the airports.
[1] Bitter IPA, Sour beers, smoked beers, etc. Whenever we go out drinking craft beers, I always ask for a sample before I buy because there is always something that I don't like the taste of. I made the mistake before of ordering pints of beer and not being able to take more than a sip.
Shipping liquids is very expensive which is why soda companies have bottling plants all over the country. You ship the dry ingredients and add water near your destination.
Beer is more difficult to produce so it's harder to create brewing/bottling all over the place. Larger brewers, like Heineken, can set up local bottling plants because they have the resources, but small craft brewers are not going to have the capability to do that. That means you've got to ship the brewed beer everywhere which, especially overseas or internationally, is going to be super expensive.
I have long wished the US would learn to have more pubs in that booth style, geared towards good alcohol and conversation, rather than music. English, Irish, Scottish, the structure is far too few between.
In the college town I am in I have thought a really cool bar would be a library/bar, designed for study groups, where you could bring a good non-fiction book and get a free drink or discount on one, and have an attached sleep-pod structure to encourage people to not drive drunk. Less sports bars, more intellectual bars...
http://www.slate.com/articles/life/culturebox/2014/02/bars_a...
>Less sports bars, more intellectual bars...
You're in the wrong country for that kind of thing. Americans don't like intellectualism. Just look at our elections.
Americans in college towns probably tolerate or perhaps, yes, even like 'intellectualism'. A bar like that could very well become a community institution and reputable business. Have some perspective.
The problem with that idea is that 1) college students don't have a whole lot of money to spend on establishments like that, and 2) the profitability of such places is poor, compared to places that serve a LOT of alcohol and don't require as much floor space. The cost per square foot of commercial real estate these days is very high, so it just isn't profitable to have an establishment where there's plenty of space (so it isn't a crowded, noisy din), people can spend lots of time relaxing, quietly socializing, working on their laptop, etc., and they don't have to spend a lot of money. It's why Starbucks are all small and crowded, and coffee shops that attempt to buck this don't do so well. You can't pay the rent easily when people have nice lounge chairs and camp out with their laptops and only buy a coffee drink and a small snack. By contrast, look at how bars and restaurants operate: bars serve high-priced alcoholic drinks and customers don't usually stay long, and are crowded. Restaurants are fairly crowded, serve high-priced meals and push hard to get you to buy high-priced alcoholic drinks, and are very pushy to get you out the door so they can clear the table for the next customer.
>First off - are you like sixteen years old?
I'm not even going to honor that insult with an answer.
It's almost like those bars aren't even Irish themed, but rather that Irish culture is themed as cheap bars.
They don't literally drop them.
After departing, the entire family said (paraphrasing), "WTF was that? That was about as Irish as a mariachi playing a didgeridoo."
They didn't even get a "you tried" sticker.
Mostly, we don't care about authenticity in restaurants. We just want thematic consistency. And the theme for an "Irish pub" is fish and chips, Guinness stew, and marginally classier decor than the rathole bar down the street. We know, deep down, that Outback Steakhouse is really only Australia-themed, rather than authentically Australian. But you'd better not break character when you're running one, buddy. You have to keep those stupid boomerangs nailed up on the walls.
And that's all the phenomenon is. It's a brand identity. It says "inexpensive, but not cheap", and it says "comfort food", and it says "automatic seasonal business every March".
It's interesting how they came to be so widespread, helped their local communities, and starting creating regional dishes (like Ginger Beef)
On return I then give these to my Irish mother ...she not being a fan of the "authentic" "Irish" bar experience is what makes this funny.
I am a bad son.
[1] Not counting actual Irish pubs in actual Irland. ;)
Low-end American-Chinese restaurants are the same way.