Except somehow they managed to completely hide the "make a phone call" button on the web - which is pretty much the most important use case. So, first thing I do is go to the "legacy Google Voice" menu item; it re-loads the page and there's my old friend...
You can't make a phone call from the app either afaict. You still use Hangouts Dialer.
Except Google Fi, where you can't use Google Voice. FFS Google.
Is there a way to route hangout messages to Google Voice?