In order to get the well written SOAP interface, it helps to have the right tools and be used to using them. I think that increases the barrier to entry on using SOAP, which leads to the idea that SOAP is terrible and crufty compared to REST.
I learned SOAP relatively recently, but well after it was a fad. Today, my experience would be like yours if I had to make a SOAP service with just a WSDL. But when I started out? It would take a longer for me to wrap my head around all of it. I can't imagine how confusing it would be if I had to do it all without the benefit of working on a team whose focus is a SOAP-based product. I dunno if I would know where to begin.
Compare that to REST. Even if you know next-to-nothing to start, you can do a basic REST tutorial for just about any stack in an hour, and get a basic implementation of an API up in an afternoon.