Ubiquiti all the things: How I fixed my dodgy Wi-Fi
troyhunt.com
troyhunt.com
I'm a network admin for a small managed service provider.
Happy to provide more detail if needed:)
https://help.ubnt.com/hc/en-us/articles/205144590-UniFi-What...
(1) - https://help.ubnt.com/hc/en-us/articles/205144550--Outdated-... (2) - https://community.ubnt.com/t5/UniFi-Wireless/Run-UniFi-as-a-...
I have been for years using (and recommending to others) multiple access points (of any brand) wired together and just set them up with the same SSID and passwords. Usually works mostly OK, although VoIP tends to drop out moving around the house (and thus changing BSSID). Keen to fix the VoIP issues. Maybe I'm missing out on something such as using special routers or some 802.11 standard that might work better.
If the OP of this thread would take a few minutes and read through Ubiquiti forums they'd know that there have been 10's of conversations wherein someone from Ubiquiti or a power use has explained why you shouldn't be using the old ZHO hacks. I said this yesterday in another Ubiquiti focused comment, but 1) ZHO forces all AP into the same L2 network and 2) ZHO puts all AP on the same channel and SSID. The last one should be blatant enough for anyone to know that that's not going to scale or be performant. ZHO was implemented for old, low bandwidth devices that needed to be on the same network. Full stop. Don't use ZHO!
Beyond that do some due diligence when setting up your networks. Even with 802.11n/ac in the 5GHz range you should be aware of best spectrum usage, about things like DFS and consider how wide of a band you're allocating to the channel selection your making (hint: it impacts overlap). Do not do not do not use auto channel selection unless you're forced to. I get it, you may not have control over this in a dense environment (apartment) but if you can control your airspace (reasonably so) map out channel utilization especially if you have more than one AP. Then go to the next step and figure out the worse spots for reception in your house are and, as the person above me states, tune RSSI down to get clients to get kicked as they "roam". This will force them to reselect much faster. One comment stated 8 second reassociations. That's just bad tuning and clear ignorance to the problem - you'd have the same thing with any other vendor.
This wasn't hard to find and there are many others, use it: http://securityuncorked.com/2013/11/the-best-damn-802-11ac-c...
I think Ubiquiti makes some really great products for the price. Have they violated GPL? Quite possibly but as others have said I don't think that's been proven judicially as of yet. You will get one of the best products at this price point though and, when setup correctly, will be much more performance than things like Eero or Google Wifi that relies on wireless as the backhaul between APs. If you're saying you can't use cabled infrastructure there are options. 1) Powerline is now "decent" as in 400-700 Mbit are attainable depending on your situation, they're also much cheaper (look for HomePlug AV2 standardization) now 2) Dedicated, directional focused wireless backhaul is the better option than an omni backhaul between something that is already handling your clients. That is Ubiquiti's forte. They only recently released the UniFi product but you can use NanoBeam, Bullet or NanoStation in your home to move things around to dedicated AP.
Ultimately if you want good wifi you have to pay for it and plan and deploy it correctly. The second half of it is why we have Eero and Google Wifi - because people don't do that. They buy Ubiquiti or some other enterprise focused WLAN solution, plug it in and do the minimal work and say it doesn't work or sucks without RTFM.
Finally if you want "fast roaming" you should know what you want before buying a product since the device OS needs to support it. Apple has basically said they're supporting 802.11r: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT202628. And 802.11r is in the latest builds of UniFi firmware, but not really exposed to the GUI config because, well, people will probably shoot themselves in the foot with it.
Edit: added link to channel allocation graphics
This will likely be one of those things requiring experience but as I'm hoping to install a Ubiquiti focused system in my house over the next few weeks, do you have any suggested resources? Particularly on the subjects of spectrum usage, DFS, and channel selection? I'm not in an apartment but still of the opinion that neighboring network boxes are causing congestion on my local system. We're all on Google Fiber with the provided network boxes, which seem to automatically select the same channel. Simply selecting a different channel hasn't seem to improve the situation (and has potentially made things worse).
We're still in the process of tuning one client with a significant investment in UniFi. ZHO is not enabled in that case and am going down the routes you've described re RSSI tuning and RF mapping, but still see blatant performance issues, and will readily admit that being forced to resort to forums for support and outdated setup articles isn't exactly confidence inspiring and helps fuel my distaste for the product. We're stuck with it though.
Anyway, just wanted to post back to say thanks.
With minimum RSSI implementations the AP will kick (deauth) clients that no longer meet the minimum RSSI level. This will force them to reconnect to and will go with the stronger BSSID being advertised with the same SSID. Still rudimentary but works rather well. I don't even notice roaming in my home anymore after tuning. It's very evident when you're on a network that has defaulted to auto and all of the channel selection and power output is up for grabs.
If you're looking at doing this with Ubiquiti they have docu and even point out the warts with simple RSSI tuning. Trolling the forums before doing a deployment is something you should do as this equipment isn't really something that will autoconfigure itself very well. I mean, it works - but clearly you can see in this thread that people who just expect it to work have bad things to say about it's effectiveness. What they don't understand is that a lot of those problems are self-inflicted.
Here's a link to the Ubiquiti RSSI guide: https://help.ubnt.com/hc/en-us/articles/221321728-UniFi-Unde...
I've ended up using pfSense combined with enterprise switches and ultra-dumb access points with 802.11Q support to simply - as transparently as possible - bring the wireless devices into the network administration fold.
I've taken to using the higher end TP-Link AC routers as my APs, but have played with Ubiquiti instead as well.
As for the OP, its a tough call. My complaints with Ubiquiti are in a heavy use congested RF environment. Not really much to say when comparing to a 5000 sqft house. We generally work around a budget but if I dont have to care about cost I'll deploy Meraki, then Aerohive, then get forced into Sonicpoint, and then there's a few other options I'd just feel bad and they don't deserve the HN referral traffic.
A close second is Xirrus, their APs are a bit bigger is size and look like oversized smoke detectors though. Though, if you work in events they are perfect: Controller built into the unit, and they have weird configurations of radios so you can deploy 16 directional radios on one device. Great for conferences where you can setup 2 of those in the corners, turn off the radios not pointing at the guests and have total airspace supremacy.
But the aren't in the same price category, are they?
We've been installing and using their gear in deployments all over the place for over 5 years now and it always just works. I think we've had to replace two faulty units in that time, out of, I dunno, several dozens.
Their software is getting better and better too, and their security camera system is IMO way ahead of most of the competition in the same price range (with the exception of a network disconnection issue that has had us and Ubiquiti tech support tearing our hair out for weeks now).
I hate that their management software requires Java though, it can be fiddly and annoying to install and I think one of our techs finally set up a VM specifically for their management software.
Not quite sure what's special about unifi here.
The box is Apple-pretty, but it's probably the least smooth network device I've had the misfortune to set up, and it's scared me off Ubiquity a bit. It's not just us, either. Forums found plenty of people with similar issues, but no solutions.
I put our controller on a $5 DigitalOcean droplet with Debian 8. Took 10 minutes to set up back in January, has been working faultlessly ever since (even through automated updates).
I'll take an awkward, consistent Java runtime setup over random solutions for, say, Python web servers using all sorts of configs.
Then there's running the things. Switching to 40Hz channels screwed up our wireless network until I discovered that iOS devices have problems with bonded channels with upper control. An easy fix usually, but the WLC doesn't give you the option to prefer one or the other; it just randomly picks a channel and then pairs it with the associated channel however. Now I have a dozen APs and I have to manually assign the channels on each one because if I set it to auto it chooses an upper channel 50% of the time.
I had an issue for a while where the APs weren't passing broadcast traffic on my LAN. After a long search, I found tons of documentation on enabling multicast (didn't help), Bonjour caching (wasn't relevant), and so on. What actually fixed it was enabling HREAP on my WLAN, for some reason.
Cisco stuff is probably great if you're spending tens of thousands of dollars and you're a Cisco-certified engineer, or if you're the kind of person to plug everything in and not change any checkboxes you don't have to, but for managing it in an office it's been a frustrating disaster.
Yeah, it stinks. But their wi-fi access points have been sooo reliable for us that it is worth the pain. We had random problems with a few other brands' most expensive routers - cost does not equal quality.
As a mitigation, we only run the management software once every many months to make changes to configuration (it is not left running on a server). We lose some logging and things, but everything works fine.
-Tesla
-Eero
-Pluot
But dang hate to see Tesla on there :(
You may also request a copy of the source by e-mailing
legal@eero.com with "Source for eero device" in the subject line.
Note, GPL doesn't mandate code be put up on GitHub. It only requires that its reasonably available.Guess I'll just wait for the Netgear patch and save my money.
But a firmware upgrade on their access point caused quite a lot of trouble. And with only one access point I seemed to be the lucky one, others had more work fixing it. Some got bricked when trying to revert to the old firmware. Support forum should provide background information if required.
Bottom line: the sales-flyer always looks great but the moment you actually touch the device you start to notice some issues you wished someone told you beforehand...
UBNT for multi AP wifi, MikroTik for everything else.
> However, if we want the GPL to retain its power, this is precisely what we cannot do.
One of the most important things.
IANAL and not an expert on licenses, but what's the point of GPL if it does not protect itself and the code it's applied to?
A free society can have laws, and a free license can have conditions.
I'd argue one of these has an approach that actively benefits humanity and the other one is a footnote in history.
Some people care less about whether the law has been violated and more about whether the source code has been made available.
You can enforce copyright on GPL code just as well as with proprietary code. You just need to take the steps to do so.
Current firmware downloads contain the uboot source code.
Based on the email quotes, Ubiquiti did violate the GPL. It hasn't been proven that they are actively doing so.
Silly. If the author doesn't want to follow good advice, too bad for him.
I'm using WRT1900ACS with DD-WRT. It works like a charm.
> if I buy a product then I expect it to work as advertised and not need to implement hacks to keep it alive.
It's not a "hack". It's installing a better quality OS on the device. Again, if the author doesn't want to do that, there is no reason to complain.
And did you try the recent version of DD-WRT there by the way?
I specifically bought hardware with open WiFi driver and well compatible with open OSes, to be able to replace the stock installation. Why should I return it now?
You might be able to do that. Troy Hunt doesn't want to. I don't want to. If I want to be able to inspect my network gear I guess I should go with Microtik or something but to each their own.
An open OS with closed source drivers? The comparison with Android XDA images wasn't so far fetched.
> And did you try the recent version of DD-WRT there by the way?
You mean the nightlies? They don't even release any stable versions anymore.
Yes, the overall feature set is richer, and performance might be better. But all that is offset by some completely ridiculous bugs, like having to modify 5ghz wifi settings only via cli, because touching a single switch on web-based admin panel causes it to die (my current tp-link).
And there have been bugs like that on every router I've tried. Always some catch. It might very well even boil down to issues on the hardware level, but the point still stands - the combination has never been stable enough.
I flashed my parents classic WRT-54G with DD-WRT and 6 years later it was still running without a single reboot(networking equip on UPS). I also have another linksys that's sold as a router that I turned into a wireless bridge for the corner of my house. This also has never had to be rebooted. Finally my ASUS AC1900 has been running merlin for years now and also rock solid.
As long as you use stable branches, Merlin, DD-WRT, and OpenWrt are a huge upgrade in stability over factory firmware. Of course, you need to run them on decent quality hardware like classic Linksys or Asus.
TP-LINK is cheap chinese crap. It gets poor reviews for a reason. Even the best OS/firmware can't make up for hardware bugs.
Sounds better than trying to setup Java though.
Also, I've checked their site a year or two ago, they didn't even had 802.11ac option at that time.
That said, they do have pretty annoying bugs, but hey, its supports hundreds of devices... Anyway, apparently DD-WRT hasn't been a good choice for years and, according to kids, OpenWRT should be replaced with https://lede-project.org .
It's not their fault, necessarily; it's one team which has to maintain support for effectively hundreds of devices, and that's pretty complicated. Still, there isn't a lot of obvious warning that 'hey, a bunch of what makes your router great isn't going to work if you install this so that might not be what you want.'
My E4200 was a great example. Got it because it was well-reviewed and supported DD-WRT and the like, but changed back to the stock firmware because DD-WRT was unstable and slow. After a week of frustrating performance issues and iffy connectivity, I refreshed with the stock firmware and everything was suddenly behaving the way it should. The same thing happened with my R6250; flashed, had problems, unfleshed.
DD-WRT seems like a good way to extend the life and usefulness of existing routers, and not a way to make the latest technology work even better; in my experience, it tends to have the exact opposite effect.
That might be the case for my car or TV too - but I just don't want to. I think it's fair to say that when I buy an appliance, if I have to worry about what software it runs (upgrade it, replace it, manage it...) it has failed me. I really don't care if it has a CPU and runs linux, it's a box that should give me wireless internet for a few years and then I replace it because there is a newer standard. If it needed updates along the way it better update itself.
That said - if I can improve it by hacking it somehow, that's fine - but it should of course work as advertised without that.
The thing with technology, and especially smartphones and computers, is that there seems to be a trend going that devices dictate your behaviour, and not the other way around. For example, windows 10 makes it extremely hard to change files in some locations, won't let the user decide when to reboot and install updates, and regularly bothers the user with useless messages: 'a virus scan (hm, I don't remember starting one?) has completed without detecting any threats.'.
A lot of people have better things to do with their time. Likewise, when want to program stuff it happens that I spent more time on my tools than on coding (visual studio crashes, or won't let me start my program because there is a zombie process, or I messed up my github repository somehow).
People want to manage their own time and are willing to pay for that (especially wealthy peoplee). This is why people buy overpriced stuff (like Apple!). It is true for most hobbies that you can do them cheaply and with a lot of effort, but everyone who is involved in a more serious way usually says: 'spend some more and you'll have a much better time'.
This isn't actually true; there's a setting in the control panel to tell it when to reboot and install updates.
That said, Windows 10 will reboot to install those updates, and then, next time you log in, will make you wait several minutes while it 'finishes installing updates'. It also does so in what is intended to be a user-friendly matter, but which comes across as creepy and menacing. The first time it happened, I logged in to see a screen that said
'Hello'
Then:
'We've made some changes to your computer' (or similar unsettling language)
And then, as if they realized at this point how menacingly they were coming across:
'Your files are all where you left them'
I was 95% sure that I'd been malwared and someone had encrypted all my stuff for ransom. I actually had a moment of panic, wondering what they would have had access to from that machine.
> This is why people buy overpriced stuff (like Apple!).
I would argue that if the frustration-free approach that Apple tends to embody best appeals to you, then it's not 'overpriced', it's just more highly priced.
The approach I took:
- When you're new to DD-WRT, look up your router in the database on their website. Take some time to read about installation (and maybe configuration) on their wiki. I never bricked any routers, but I can imagine taking it one step at a time prevents some headaches. Using their website search will lead you to builds which are a few years old (might differ for newer routers). I installed those initially. It might not be a bad idea to start with those as they probably match the documentation.
- But, you can also update with newer beta versions. They gave me the same stability and performance. You'll get more options and a nicer interface, but presumably also security fixes. Find those through their FTP [0]. Be sure to read which exact build you need in the wiki.
So all in all a bit rough, but worth the effort. You'll get basically the same options as the OP.
I'm running mainline DD-WRT on the slightly cheaper WRT1200, and aside from a couple of random 1-2 minute dropouts it's been great.
The high-end gear many get for running open firmware can get expensive. It isn't hard to spend less money on dedicated devices and get better performance.
What I spent on an EdgeRouter, AP AC Pro and a good managed switch is less than what the top recommendation from this thread:
https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=13113766
cost - $250 for the Linksys EA8500 vs $130 + $50 for the UniFi setup and add $50 for a TP-Link switch.
I now want to get a bit fancier with the router - so i'm swapping it out for an eBay sourced Cisco or similar (I want dual WAN and failover, along with routing some traffic over VPN's) - still cost the same but much better (and a setup that is applicable up to 100+ users)
I had someone tell me on Twitter to try out the better models because there is a lot you can do with them, and i've seen references to it before on other forums (it seems it is common now to do VPN routing setups on EdgeRouters)
I might give it a go - I do like trying different things out to get some experience across diff products
Edge router: amazing
Edge switch: amazing
AC access points: amazing
I've never tried any of the unifi stuff though.
UAP-AC-Lite & UAP-AC-LR: 6.5 watts maximum
UAP-AC-Pro: 9 watts maximum
UAP-AC-Edu: 20 watts maximum, but it does have a speaker for doing announcements
(Nothing against Ubiquiti which I'm sure is great, but I've been a very happy Mikrotik user for years. Recently updated my main AP to their gigabit (wired and wireless) hAP AC and loving it. I use a second Mikrotik as a fully-bridged repeater, and have an IoT wired+wirless virtual network firewalled off from the rest.)
I use a Mikrotik RB2011 (non-WiFi) router for Internet connectivity, and Unifi APs spread throughout the house for wireless. I've had nothing but good things to say about the setup.
It's possible to do some amazing things. It's also possible to screw up trying to do amazing things (use safe mode for automatic rollback in case your changes lock you out).
But as much as I admire it, I can't recommend it as a wifi access point. It doesn't have an external antenna, and its performance compared to consumer routers is pretty mediocre. I have it running in my office, and in my living room (5m away, only a single wall between them) my AppleTV and Xbox One would continually drop out. Installed my old Asus RT-N56U as an access point connected to the Mikrotik via Ethernet, and haven't had an issue since.
Admittedly, I never tried fiddling with it to see if different channels or settings might work better.
You wouldn't expect to buy a Cisco box, for example, plop it down and automagically do everything without serious time invested in configuring it.
I've since upgraded to the hAP ac, which ranges from 29 dBm (800 mW) down to 25 dBm (320 mW). That extra ~15 dBm does make a huge difference penetrating walls. (The RB951*-2HnD models are similarly high-powered if you only care about 2.4 GHz.)
A couple tricks I've used to increase link reliability through walls are to disable short guard interval (to protect better against reflections), and to disable higher bitrates (to avoid excessive failed retries). Those have made my WDS link through 4 walls pretty stable.
I wish I had sketchy consumer gear so I could feel good about upgrading to this prosumer stuff, but that N600 just blankets my 2 storey house with wireless with ease, and never fails it seems :/ First world problems.
3 story house, 1 AP AC Pro per floor 1 AP AC Pro in the detached office 1 Switch 16 POE in the house 1 Switch 16 POE in the office - 2 x Cat6a between switches in a LAG 1 Security Gateway 3P 1 Cloud Key
I upgraded all the firmware on the complete system as I was typing this message using their app for the iPad.
Run a FreeNAS Mini in the office 2 x 1g in a LAG.
Run Insteon home automation for lights, plugs, HVAC, Camaras, leak & door sensors.
3 TVs with Intel Compute Stick with Kodi plugged into the TV HDMI. Added USB to 1g on the stick and wired to switch. Logitech Harmony remotes (same in every room) for control.
Lots of laptops, phones, pads all wifi. TVs are Wifi for their apps (used Ethernet for Compute Sticks).
Every product here is rock solid and just works (okay Kodi is buggy as is the Windows 10 it runs on).
I love the Ubiquiti gear. We use the APs in the office at work as well. 2 older APs (2 year old models - plan to upgrade soon) with 35+ devices on it at any time (most are developer laptops with lots of traffic to the DC). We use TrueNAS to boot all the servers, etc (FreeNAS commercial version).
So for wifi Ubiquiti is pretty dang good and love FreeNAS (and the IXsystems hardware) if you need a NAS.
For less technical I have recommended Eero to a few people and they all say it is quite good so far.
The trick to GREAT wifi coverage is to turn the power down on each access point as low as you can, and have as many APs as you can. Wifi is a two way street, e.g. even if your AP can blast a signal through 5x 10ft thick walls, it won't matter in the slightest, since your phone or laptop etc won't be able to do the same.
In fact - that's a lie :) It will matter, it will hurt the end user experience. The phone etc will see a "strong" signal, select it, but outbound packet loss will be terrible.
It has no knobs what-so-ever, but it's as good as Ubiquiti for far less $.
I do however have a lot of 2nd hand hardware and am able to invest some time into optimizing them for my family's internet needs. It may not be perfect, but it works 90% of the time and i learn a lot about connecting lots of different devices and (virtual) machines.
Unfortunately, the internet being the hostile place it is, my edgerouter struggles to stay up for more than a couple of days before I have to power cycle the device.
There may be a fix based on packet filtering beyond a simple NAT ruleset I'm using but it wasn't really worth my time to fix a $60 device when another refurbished PC from Microcenter is twice that and will stay up for months. Move two NICs, a hard drive and done.
Still at some point I plan to set a bridge mode packet capture device between the edge router and cable modem to see what's knocking it over. But at least for a painless setup that my wife doesn't have to reboot the edge router didn't work out, which is too bad. I would otherwise recommend them on price alone.
I compare it to my Mikrotik switch that while being able to do pretty much anything I could want to do, has such a steep learning curve that I ended up just using it as a slightly fancy home firewall/switch.
I'm considering pulling the trigger on the Ubiquiti switches and another three AC units for my house to cover the last few dead zones. It's been one of my favorite purchases. I really want to play around with VLANs for guest networks.
I like both a lot, but I think Ubiquiti has the edge if I had to choose.
This video had a good overview: https://youtu.be/XvWOx3PvYFM
The edge router is nice cuz it also has doing and great firewall. One annoying thing is there's no idiot protection... You can lock yourself out of the admin interface and only way to recover is restore factory defaults.
Been there, done that :)
I do have a big gripe though - it has a hard wired limit of 4x SSIDs for each access point.
I run a number of VLANs, each with their own SSID - and it means I can only have the Unifi provide my main ones and have to run an old Netgear router on different wifi channels to provide the rest :(
I've never quite understood why my cheap routers running OpenWRT can seemingly have unlimited (or at least a lot of) SSIDs, where an expensive Unifi will only provide 4.
And they're just a bit more expensive than a good wifi/router combo. For the features it feels like I'm getting the biggest bargain.
My phone stays on ac all the time. Not sure how to fix it. That and the stupid java application needed to configure were not my most favorite on boarding experiences. Seems an ok system but not super great for getting set up. Its definitely enterprise though.
So I just reset it to factory defaults and I'll try again tonight after setting it back up.
Without mapping the signal to find out if my laptop is in some dead zone while being in direct line of sight of the AP, I can't find a great pattern to it.
OSX for what its worth so don't think there is such a checkbox to check. :) I just keep it up to date with security updates. Its about time to install 10.12 so I'll just reinstall and restore my home dir at that point.
Here DSL router/modems by AVM (Fritz!box) are really common and they do their job extraordinarily well for being consumer grade hardware. They also regularly get regular updates and offer most things you need as a consumer in one device. (No you don't need a special DHCP server device). There are also other decent consumer grade wifi routers like the now discontinued ones by Apple
Surely some Europeans live in large houses, right? He's living in a freestanding house in a more regional part of Australia. Travel into the city in Australia and you'll find smaller dwellings, like my 56sqm apartment :)
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/report-on-business/average-ho...
That's a great source though I never knew that Australia has the largest average home size. It's interesting considering Australia very large and very sparsely populated (on average), yet most people live in cities.
I could move a few hours away and get a 3-story 500sq meter house for about as much as it would cost me to own my condo where I do live.
It's all about location, and in places like australia or america where there is space galore in some places, it's not unsurprising that people build bigger (especially when it doesn't really cost all that much more comparatively)
Also, software-wise, my Tomato-based router does everything described in the post, and I haven't had a single problem yet. It cost $100 (but it doesn't have as extensive WiFi coverage as 5 APs, of course).
Insert DD-WRT/OpenWRT here and then give up and get a MikroTik since you can actually eat your own dog food.
My TP-Links with OpenWRT (I know, I should upgrade to LEDE) are probably much more stable than any other networking gear I've ever owned. Everything is old 802.11n gear powered by ath9k.
But if you aren't into flashing your own firmwares, MikroTik is fine too. I use a pair of SXT 5 lites and the uptime (yes, even wireless uptime!) is approaching 100d.
I decided to use a snapshot as it's the only thing with support for my router.
Got it setup and working nicely, it looks great, works great, no bugs, perfect!
Then a week or so later I needed to install a package, only to find that their package manager only ever has the most recent version of each package, and there is no way to upgrade without wiping and reinstalling. And by this point the kernel had updated, so I couldn't install any kernel modules without bumping the kernel first.
So now i'm stuck on a branch that I can't install packages on, I don't really have the time to pull down all the configs and reformat, and i can't update or install anything at all.
It's kind of my own fault for not reading and fully understanding the docs before starting, but it still sucks.
I've lived alone in 30sqm apartments and 60sqm apartments. Haven't seen much of a difference, besides that having more than 2 people over in a 30sqm apartment gets claustrophobic.
500sqm house seems totally ridiculous to me.
It just seems arrogant of you to criticize his decision to buy a large house without knowing anything about him. I live in a space not much larger than 2-3 walk in closets, and after a year of this shit, I wish I lived in a goddamn mcmansion.
Europe iirc has in general really good internet speeds. In america anyways, it's sometimes about squeezing the most out of your shitty overpriced connection.
Because there are so few in the US, not because we all live in one...
Also, few people live in those castles.
Given who he is (the creator of https://haveibeenpwned.com/), I would just assume that he have over-provisioned his physical housing capacity in anticipation of a major event. :-)
Seriously, put down the proletariat pitchfork and lets talk about the content. Maybe this is just his warm-up for putting wifi on his superyacht!!!
edit: grammar
Sorry for continuing the off-topic thread, but I'd like to point that a system where the non-1% can have big houses is rather more proletariat-friendly than one where only the top elites can.
I guess that it's not that questionable that waste is bad, so the real question is what is sufficient or still allowable. For that I used European norms of house sizes, where 500 square meters is considered ridiculous.
By this rationale we should just shut down all datacenters, stop driving, stop eating meat, tell gamers to power off, and go back to hang-drying our hand-washed laundry (even in cold wet places like Sweden). At what point does it stop?
It seems that you believe that you are different from this guy -- having achieved some moral superiority by virtue of "European-ness." But you are not. You are here on HN. You go to work. You take hot showers. You might even eat meat. You take holidays to Thailand or Dominican Republic or other poor countries as many "Europeans" are apt to do. Tell me, what is the social, environmental, political, and blah blah blah cost of that?
Who cares? Enjoy yourself, and try not to kill anyone on your way into the grocery store.
It's good to shutdown datacenters when they're not needed, but if you need them you need them. It's good not to drive if you don't need to. Luckily I can rely almost totally on public transport but for most people that's not possible so it's okay to use a car. It's good to eat less meat, but also I eat meat because it makes my life better.
> It seems that you believe that you are different from this guy
I'm assuming that I'm not and that life is pretty comparable in the western world, which is why I'm questioning why 500 square meters is excessive here in Europe but not in the USA or Australia.
> having achieved some moral superiority by virtue of "European-ness."
Not really, there are also issues where the US is doing better than Europe (gay marriage, legalisation of drugs)
> Who cares? Enjoy yourself
I think everyone should care about the effects of what they're doing, but everyone also has the right to enjoy themselves. I just don't see how a 500 square meter home helps enjoying yourself.
Yes, a FritzBox might be enough for most people but it is not the perfect solution for all problems.
On a related note, I find your tone a little ondescending. Troy has big house, so what? There are people in Europe with bigger houses, too, you know?
Also, dedicated wifi hardware like Ubiquiti APs or Netgear Orbis are way better when it comes to handling your wifi when there are 25+ other networks in your area.
The amount of 'space' taken up by residential dwellings is very small.
Australia is massive and empty, and it always will be.
If you want to live in bigger home, move to Canada, Texas or Australia where the geographic reality is very different.
Or frankly - anywhere in East Germany outside of the city and you'll find yourself with equally ample, and cheap space.
You can mod off-the-shelf hardware and get decent performance. I've done it. The issue with going that route is stability. I've modded Linksys, Asus, etc. over the years and while they might perform well for a day or two, I always end up with stability issues and weird behavior.
Ubiquiti is rock solid and performs well. They provide advanced features out of the box, no need for custom firmware or purchase of licenses. There's a reason people like them.
It is way more complex than one would think it should be, except that we've seen time and time again how crappy network configurations screw up everything. It is also helpful to have historical data when complaining to the ISP. It is also amazing to see the guest network which has given out 60 leases, sure some of those are the phones of people who came over but a lot of them are things that want to be "online".
I really don't get how Linksys screwed the pooch, but they did. $300 AP that doesn't work.
Edit: one config that made them work better for me was to change some setting from maximum speed to maximum distance, without that the connection was pretty short range. The lower speed is still faster than my internet connection so I'm fine with it.
Since I bought them specifically to run DD-WRT, reflashing them wasn't a big deal for me, though it wasn't quite as easy to do as reflashing a classic WRT54G.
* Belkin has been on my "don't buy anything of theirs except cables, and even then look for an alternative" list ever since their 2003 router spam fiasco. Sure, they backed off, but the fact that they even considered doing such a thing in the first place is asinine. http://www.theregister.co.uk/2003/11/07/help_my_belkin_route... (sorry for the Reg link, they weren't that bad in that era)
are there APs with two radios each - one for backhaul and one for service?
Just search for "bridge" in one of their user manuals and see if that is what you need: http://tinyurl.com/j9nwuqs
Likely you're looking for a wifi repeater.
I presume there is some enterprise gear that does it too. I know there are consumer products like Eero or Ubiquiti's AmpliFi line have mesh networked repeaters. Especially the AmpliFi might be good enough for you, depending on how demanding your usage is.
https://www.flashrouters.com/blog/2011/10/19/what-is-the-dif...
> After venting on Twitter, I got a variety of responses including that I should install the open source dd-wrt firmware or that I should buy a power adaptor that can automatically cycle the power every night. No, no, a hundred times no to both - if I buy a product then I expect it to work as advertised and not need to implement hacks to keep it alive.
It's his prerogative of course but I'd definitely have tried a quick software fix like this before going out and buying $2k worth of all new gear. Maybe it would've solved the issues and maybe it wouldn't but in terms of time and money sunk into it, I think trying out the improved firmware would've been the logical step before moving on to new hardware.
But then again everyone has a different level of aversion to different things so maybe his aversion to messing with open firmware was as strong as my aversion to buying more stuff. In the end, the blog post was about his solution and it's still good info to have.
I use a single Nanostation 5Ghz out on the front porch to bridge back to my Unifi Wifi node
If your existing routers live in the closets, the Nanobeams can too, you just need to aim them at each other.
Author didn't want to try a new OS on his device, and instead opted to spend an additional 2.1k on enterprise level devices.
While this did 'fix' it, he wasn't really innovative or creative. Just was willing to spend more money.
A similar example might be, "How I fixed my car" - Bought a new one.
Also, my one paranoid worry about routers are the frequency of security updates...my TP-link hasn't had a patch for 2 years, and I'm hoping Ubiquiti has a better track record to avoid things like a Mirai infestation...
They fixed the most problematic one, but I gave up and work around the other one.
Or does Ubiquity require you to use their switches for anything to work properly?
ubnt@ubnt:~$ uptime
06:16:26 up 140 days, 13:15, 1 user, load average: 1.08, 1.03, 1.05My ideal (budgeted) setup is:
- (1x) MX65 -- 12 GbE with 2 PoE+. PoE+ powers the access points.
- (2x) MR33 -- 802.11ac Wave 2 powered via MX65.The MX65 costs around $600 -- a 24 port (all with PoE) Ubiquiti EdgeSwitch costs about half that much.
I think the reason Ubiquiti gets a lot of write-ups for home use is that it's priced reasonably for the quality. I've had an 8 node small office deployment running flawlessly for 3 years now.
MX65 - $1,072 with 3 year enterprise subscription
https://www.amazon.com/Meraki-Branch-Security-Appliance-250M... MR33 - $646 each with 3 year enterprise subscription
https://www.rhinonetworks.com/product/device/meraki-mr33?gcl...Having built a software platform that integrated with the big enterprise wifi vendors, I can comfortably say meraki's is the most intuitive and easiest to use.
So, you're happy with someone owning your devices and network, and you being said "renter" on your network? This is DRM of the worst kind: the logic is locked away behind their servers.
Nope nope, a flaming rake of fucks nope.
Hence why i am very sad when I heard the rumors of Airport Extreme being shoved. Most consumer Router as of today, still requires a reset from time to time. Please name me one which doesn't, Linksys, Belkin, Buffalo, Netgear, Dlink, ASUS. Some of these brand may have some router that doesn't require reset, but it is likely 90% of their Range do.
And if you think the top end router may be better, think again, sometimes it may overheat just because it was trying to push the top speed, or too new with buggy firmware.
Router should only be a one time setup cost. Most Enterprise Router brand, Ubnt, Ruckus ( God they are good ), Aruba are all good.
And Apple is the only one i can recommend in a consumer brand, and you only get 2 models to choose from ( Excluding Time Machine ). Cant go wrong, and it is using NetBSD being a bonus.
Last year I bought my wife and I our first set of "smart" phones. Yes I'm serious, I've been in IT all my life but never felt I had a need for anything other than a flip phone. But I noticed Samsung selling a Galaxy Core Prime for $90 and I bought my wife the LG Stylo for $180 since I wanted her to have a better camera.
For my home network, my modem runs into a linux box with Shorewall where it is natted/firewalled and split into two subnets.
I've been a fan of the netgear prosafe access points for the last 10 years, as I could always find older models on ebay for cheap.
Currently I was using a WN203 (2x2 802n). For the most part it was just my laptop and a Roku box connected. never had problems. But enter in these new smart phones...
Within a few weeks (of buying the phones) I noticed random times of terrible wifi lag. Looking at the AP's management webpage, I noticed during these random times of lag, my wife's phone would be connected at just 1M. I'd tell her to restart her phone and the problem would go away for a day or two. But it kept happening. I wasn't sure what the problem was but I used it as an excuse to get another access point, I was wanting one that had 5ghz anyway. I sniped a netgear WNDAP660 (3x3 802n) off of ebay, new in box for $95. They are normally $350 new. Figured that would solve my problems.
To my horror after a few days of having the new WNDAP660 set up, I started getting the same terrible lag and my wife's phone would be connected at 1M again. This time though the WNDAP660, through the web interface had an option to save wifi traffic packets. During the next time of lag, I saved a few minutes of packet captures and opened them in wireshark.
I was surprised to see that even though my wife's phone was connected at 1M, it was not the issue. My phone (the Core Prime) was spamming pwr_mgt request packets, 100's per second. It was basically using up all the bandwidth. In disgust, I moved everything to the 5ghz band (gave it a different id), and left only my phone on the 2.4ghz. So all was well....
But that was just a couple of months ago. I've since out grown my core prime (which doesn't take much) and bought a Galaxy S6. I turned off the 2.4ghz band on the AP, and now everything (including my new S6) are all connected to 5ghz.
And then you guessed it... I was sitting at the kitchen table and noticed lag while trying to browse the net on my laptop. I looked up and noticed the Roku box playing on TV was also stuck loading. I reached over and picked up my new S6 and put it into airplane mode. Instantly all was well on the airwaves. I haven't actually done a packet dump yet, so I don't know if the S6 is spamming pwr mgt requests or not.
But this is really annoying. I don't know what is at fault either. It seems smart phones don't play nice. But I've also caught my Roku box spewing RTS requests, even after rebooting it. I thought it had been hacked or something and was trying to dos me, but after restarting one of the cell phones all went back to normal. Its as if certain devices don't play well with each other. I mean, in my original lag case, the core prime was spamming packets, yet restarting my wifes phone would solve the problem just as good as restarting my phone. Makes no sense....
So I guess if you get random lag on wifi, try turning off a cell phone or two until you find the culprit. And once you find it, then.... Well actually I don't know what you do then. Any tips? lol
Ubiquiti now has an iOS/Android app that can be used to do basic setup of the APs, and once they're configured, they "just work".
Somewhat alarmist but an interesting perspective:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microwave#Effects_on_health
Microwaves can't hurt you unless you focus the hell out of them, right at yourself. Even then, they can't make you experience the health effects that this handsome fellow was talking about (insomnia, really?). You might get buzzing in your ears if you're right next to a radar dish... and that's about it.
FCC guidelines on radio emissions are pretty strict. If people were baking themselves with their Wi-Fi routers, someone would've filed a lawsuit by now.
This is what's wrong with TED Talks, and with pop sci / pseudoscience in general. It's all excitement, no truth. See also, "power poses": http://www.chronicle.com/article/When-Big-Ideas-Go-Bad/23854...
> unless you focus the hell out of them
By this you mean, increase the intensity of the radiation? Obviously, a person would die inside a microwave oven that uses the same frequency as wifi (2.4Ghz). But it seems myopic to dismiss the possibility that there are no other dangerous effects besides heating. There is still much ongoing research on the effect of pulsed/modulated microwave radiation (as opposed to continuous radiation). As another example, certain RF harmonics are particularly dangerous:
At frequencies near the body's natural resonant frequency, RF energy is absorbed more efficiently, and maximum heating occurs
http://www.arrl.org/rf-radiation-and-electromagnetic-field-s...
But I'll take you at your word.
Here's how you can calculate flux density caused by your router: http://physics.stackexchange.com/a/48092.
Then compare that calculation to the graph shown here for safety information: http://www.arrl.org/files/file/Technology/RFsafetyCommittee/...
Furthermore, the FCC limits router wattage to 1W. The IEEE says that you shouldn't worry about radiation below 7W. That's on the same page you linked above.
There are specific limits on this sort of radiation. If anything you've said were true, a lot of people would've gotten sued by now.
And myopic or not, true or false, I have more things to think about than WiFi radiation. Link me a peer-reviewed study or else stop fear-mongering.
[0] https://mrncciew.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/cwap-ht-ie-17.p...
/snark