It's a decent framework for what it is and has a large community behind it. Some of the best marketing in a Python project I know about.
Just from memory, the last time I looked at the ORM code it was pretty bad. There were functions that ran on for hundreds of lines without comments or docstrings. Plenty of introspection being used to bypass encapsulation. It wasn't impossible to follow, but it did look a little haphazard and "thrown together" (as opposed to thoughtfully planned out and designed).
SQLAlchemy otoh, is a really good example of well designed and clean code. As far as ORMs and database interfaces go, they have some very clear ideas and concepts they've built up from.
The "mess" I think Django may find itself in is that there are frameworks built on third-party libraries that are easier to use and better to use than Django. Its ORM isn't as great as SQLAlchemy. Its templating engine isn't as great as Mako. For a framework as large as Django I think they will find it harder and harder to keep up with what everyone else is doing as long as they continue to believe that they can "code it all."