Starbucks: Numbers do lie. Sometimes pathologically so…
gapingvoid.com
gapingvoid.com
b) So when did Starbucks start using the awful coffee it uses nowadays? Or do they merely buy good beans and roast them badly?
I get the impression that Starbucks in its early days was a coffee snob place, but at some point it transitioned into a mass-market coffee place. It would be fascinating to be able to try a coffee from the original Starbucks in the 1970s to find out whether it has got worse or whether the tastes of the US coffee snob have got more sophisticated.
I don't think Starbucks is unaware of this.
Given a shot of espresso from each of the coffee places I visit regularly, I could tell you which is which just from the aroma. So there is never going to be a "blind" test.
Before their espresso bean quality really took a dive, they started introducing the first generation of their automated espresso machines. The same beans that, depending upon barista, produced a decent, sometimes very good, shot from the hand-operated espresso bars, produced an espresso approximating warm, flat cola (really) from the automated bars. I knew one store manager of 10 plus years who would dive in and tweak the automated bar until in produced espresso that was a more palatable "shadow" of a good hand-pulled shot, but his motivation was personal interest and he could not keep the machine producing at that quality -- it was a constant struggle of adjustments that could not be maintained in a commercial environment.
I've heard it suggested that they may have started "burning" the beans more in an attempt to compensate for the weakness of the espresso that the automated bars pulled. Also, my impression is that corporate attention shifted to identifying and marketing more categories of merchandise.
I hardly ever drink a Startbucks, any more, but I've heard that the quality has improved somewhat since Schultz dove back into operations and told people essentially to fix their quality problems. Apparently, the beans are not being burned as badly. They've also been rolling out a second generation of automated bar (as well as some different automated bars for locations having different volume requirements) that produces a better shot than the first generation.
Their in-store brewed coffee still sucks. Their overpriced instant coffee tastes better -- as I've experienced when they first launched it and were offering side-by-side taste test comparisons.
P.S. Their best "take home" beans/roasts, in my opinion: Sumatra, and the holiday blends (particularly end-of-year, although Thanksgiving is, I've been told, a fairly similar blend), depending on the year.
Basically, I've heard that Starbucks does way over-roast their beans, but the main problem with them, and with most coffee places, is that they don't use freshly roasted beans. Beans go rancid within 7-10 days of roasting, and after that almost invariably produce that overpowering gasoline flavor.
Using freshly roasted beans is terrible for inventory and horribly inconvenient (transportation, etc), and people don't understand that straight coffee isn't supposed to taste like gasoline, so they do fine.
Use http://espressomap.com to find places with coffee that actually tastes good (as opposed to milk and sugar that tastes good).
(On top of this, brewing espresso is really tricky, and requires constant readjustment of grind, brew time, brew temperature, brew pressure, and brew volume (these are coupled, so not quite that many degrees of freedom) based on flavor, texture, and volume of the resulting shot. Baristas at good espresso places pull shots and taste them regularly throughout the day to recalibrate.)