> Their initial fall test actually broke some carabiners! So they adjusted it to be a smaller load.

I'm surprised they didn't go by the UIAA standard of 80kg factor two falls; it's been in effect for a while and makes comparisons easier.

> if the long screw hits rock before going all the way in, the exposed tube creates a lever arm. In those situations the generally accepted practice is to use a webbing runner to tie off the ice screw at the ice, instead of using the hanger.

This goes for pitons as well. There's a nice illustration in "Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills" which I can recommend picking up as a good introduction to climbing and mountaineering. The supplemental resources listed also are good if you want to go into more detail.