I think this whole article is a click-bait or over sensationalism. The culture that the author alludes to, authoritatively declaring it to have 'vanished', has not vanished by a long shot.

If one were to take ten random train trips longer than 6 to 8 hours each, I bet not one will turn out to be sans signs of the rich food culture. In all probability, it has reduced, but certainly not vanished.