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Same! react-router is the only thing I've dealt with in this ecosystem that I truly, viscerally disliked.

I'm curious, did you replace react-router with something else or are you managing the url "manually"?

With a tiny cljs lib (bidi) and some 10 lines of code to change content reactively

What are you using instead, can you recommend a nice alternative?

Basically it is just the Express router wrapped with logic from Page.js for catching link clicks and what not.

We do universal rendering with a simple middleware and share all our middleware, rendering and route definitions on both the FE and BE.