1 in 5 Seafood Samples Is Fake, Report Finds
nytimes.com
nytimes.com
Olmsted exposes rampant fraudulent labeling and deceptive practices in the food industry, including Parmesan cheese, olive oil, truffle oil, seafood (salmon, snapper, white tuna, shrimp), Kobe beef, and more.
I'm about halfway through the book, and it's shocking. It's definitely changed how I shop for certain food and what I order in restaurants.
* 91% of seafood consumed in the United States is imported, and half of it is farmed. Yet only one-thousandth of 1 percent of imports are inspected for fraud.
* A study of NYC seafood done by Oceana, a non-profit marine conservation group, found fraud in 58% of retail outlets and 39% of restaurants.
* Every sushi restaurant from which samples were collected—100%—served fake fish
* A supermarket test 2011 found that the five top-selling imported "extra virgin" olive oil brands in the United States failed to meet the basic legal standard 73% of the time.
* In 2001, the USDA banned the importation of Kobe eef due to cases of mad cow disease. The ban was lifted in 2012, but only a handful of restaurants/suppliers are able to obtain real Kobe Beef. Yet, we've all seen Kobe beef plastered everywhere on menus; it's all fake.
* Kobe is a completely unregulated term. Under USDA regulations, the legal requirement for calling something Kobe beef is that it qualifies as beef.
I'm confused, what were they serving instead? Bison? Crab? Chicken? Tofu? Sharks? How can you fake fish?
If I'm being honest, this sounds like an exaggeration to me. Maybe rephrase if that's not what you meant?
(Edit: See my comment below [1] referring to Wikipedia -- it appears it's not even clear these are being mislabeled in the first place. Some people just don't think there is a huge distinction between the species; others do. That's another reason why this seems like a gross exaggeration of what is going on.)
You can find the report here http://oceana.org/reports/widespread-seafood-fraud-found-new...
There's a chart on page 5 for the substitutions. For example, replacing white tuna with escolar.
Take note of [1]:
> Escolar is considered by the FDA and most fish experts to be Tuna
If it's just arctic char marked as salmon, meh.
Yes, that's why I very clearly said
> not everyone cares exactly what the species is
And was anyone substituting salmon with tuna in the first place? It's not like every wild substitution is being made. Like I said, the FDA is fine with some of them. Your viewpoint is just fine (and I'm with you honestly) but my point is that a lot of other people have others.
I would say that is about 100% wrong.
I don't order "the fish" in any restaurant. I order what's on the menu, and if the menu says it's snapper, I expect snapper. If it's not snapper, change your menu.
Wouldn't you object to my restaurant serving you Angus beef when you actually ordered the Wagyu?
> I would say that is about 100% wrong. I don't order "the fish" in any restaurant.
You aren't everyone. And people generally try not to be sarcastic when ordering, either. Ordering "the fish" in a seafood restaurant would be obviously sarcastic. In another kind of restaurant, it isn't necessarily.
Heck, take a look at "Filet-O-Fish" on McDonald's menu: https://www.mcdonalds.com/us/en-us/product/filet-o-fish.html
> Dive into our wild-caught fish sandwich! Sourced from sustainable fisheries, topped with melty American cheese and creamy tartar sauce, and served on a soft, steamed bun.
What kind of fish is it? You have no idea from just looking at the menu. But people order it anyway. Maybe you don't, but you are not everyone.
And no, this isn't the only restaurant (or "food place", or whatever you want to call it) in the world that does this.
FISH FILET PATTY: Ingredients: Pollock, Water, Vegetable Oil ...
I thought I was just saying not everyone tries to figure it out before ordering.
McDonalds didn't lie in any of that advertising(no matter how gross the food is.) They even had the actual type of fish in a discover-able format which the high end sushi restaurant fails to do and charges you high prices for what might be worse than what McDonalds is selling you; how would you know?
Uhm, way to take it out of context. I was only bringing up McDonald's in reply to the quote in the parent comment:
>> I don't order "the fish" in any restaurant.
I wasn't using it for any other argument.
Now, in reply to your point: like I said much earlier, as Wikipedia says, the FDA and other "experts" don't consider this to be lying either. So if you have a problem, you should be complaining to them instead.
A sushi restaurant promises you tuna and still doesn't give you tuna.
You don't see anything wrong with that?
If I cared enough to order such a thing. But it isn't a safety issue, it's a truth in advertising issue. Hard when the truth involved is something like the distinction of champagne vs. sparkling wine.
We need transparency or food companies will cut corners at every turn to save costs and put the publics' health at risk.
The whole pooint of having the word "Champagne" is to distinguish the product of a particular geographical region ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Champagne_(province) ), in contrast to similar products on the ground that the value add is in the methods and traditions formed over time in that region and different in other regions. Most people swear they notice the difference, but eh. The point still stands in our culture of valueing specific products or methodologies. There's nothing inherently hard in distinguishing productors who're in the business since several generations from the new farm (who might be of equal or superior quality) in $foreignplace who's trying to cash in on the name.
One particular example a bit tangential to the original thread: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laguiole_knife The term is not protected so the market's been flooded with things who share nothing but the shape with the original item. Which incidentally are the gorgeous looking and utterly indestructable :)
You'll notice the difference between escolar/"white tuna" and albacore tuna that we normally eat is that it's a lot cheaper, is oily and it gives you explosive orange diahharea.
Of course, mislabeled food is not fantastic, but I've figured for a while, when I order kobe beef sliders, "Yes, bold faced lies on the menu, but if it tastes good, who cares?" Transparency and reporting can go a long way here; isn't the rest just "market price" of whatever they're calling it today?
1. http://www.fda.gov/Food/GuidanceRegulation/HACCP/ucm078063.h...
In a fine dining establishment they do actually market it as a particular type of fish. And particular types of fish do typically have different attributes (Heavy metal content or fat and oil content, parasite risks).
If I sold you an "i7 with 16gig of ram" but when you opened the computer up it was actually a pentium 4 with 2 gig, you'd be really pissed. If I had just marketed it as "computer" you wouldn't have a basis to be angry.
Imagine if I came back to you and said "oh gee, I guess that happens, knowing what I'm selling you is tough, our records aren't so good."
I would be completely fucking negligent, at best, and more likely I would be dishonest. Particularly when I'm selling an inferior product as a superior one. You'll notice no one ever asks for escolar and gets something that is actually much better. If it happens repeatedly and endemically, it is almost certainly fraud.
They're currently making a lot of money bilking consumers with an inferior product to what they have advertised.
I guess my point is that mislabeled is too generous to the character of the industry. Mislabeled implies someone made a "mistake." "Fake fish" maybe isn't exactly semantically correct, but it is closer to the nature of crime. (Maybe we can agree on "fraudulent fish", I think I like that better.)
According to the book, here are common substitutes:
* Escolar for white tuna
* Asian catfish, ponga, tilapia, hake for grouper
* Tile fish for grouper/halibut/red snapper
* Tilapia for catfish
* Langostino, which is shrimp or crab for lobster
In terms of texture and taste, white tuna may very well be indistinguishable from escolar for a lot of people. It's still much less desirable than white tuna. Japan has banned escolar in 1977, deeming it toxic.
That shouldn't, by itself, be a problem, right? Any importation is a big deal that requires a license and someone putting their name down as having responsibility for it.
Even with low inspection, as soon as you find the fraud, you fine that importer and cut them off until they have their act together, right? Why doesn't that work as an incentive to prevent blatant abuses?
Agreed, I'd expect it to work that way as well.
I was lucky to work in the tame minority of the fishing industry, but we sure heard our fair share of horror stories from the boats registered out of the Philippines and Thailand. Not sure what percentage was true, but the common theme is: humans and their names and families are cheap, if the buyer isn't racist.
Yes, and? That's how statistical analysis works. You don't sample every single member of the population, as it would be infeasibly expensive. You can get almost as good results for a small fraction of the cost (through random sampling).
There's a 0% chance there's a single gram of Kobe beef in those.
Ah ! That explains how you can find kobe beef burger on a motor way dinner chain in Spain for the same price than a regular "gourmet" burger.
In 2013, there was the Salmonella Heidelberg outbreak causing deadly brain absences in children and making hundreds sick. But nothing was done for over a year.[2] Instead of fixing the problems here, the government reacts by allowing China to process our chicken making the problem that much harder trace.[3]
We’ve let Industry and lobbyists take our democracy from us with their super pacs and regulatory capture. When are people going to get fed up with this and demand that our government starts protecting us instead of the industry?
[1] http://olivecenter.ucdavis.edu/research/files/report041211fi...
[2] http://www.laweekly.com/restaurants/foster-farms-finally-rec...
[3] https://www.davidwolfe.com/usda-shipping-chickens-china-proc...
From a NY Times editorial on their poor response to a recent issue with supplements:
Much of the responsibility for the F.D.A.’s sluggish response must fall on Dr. Daniel Fabricant, who left a senior position at the Natural Products Association, a trade group for supplement makers and sellers, to head the F.D.A.’s division of dietary supplement programs in early 2011 and who jumped back to the trade association as its chief executive in the spring of 2014. He has been succeeded at the F.D.A. by several acting directors; the current one is Cara Welch, from the same trade group. Both dragged their feet on BMPEA. [1]
[1] http://www.nytimes.com/2015/04/13/opinion/conflicts-of-inter...
I think USA needs to invade itself and bring some democracy along.
There are a few influential thinkers who talked about this in the past, Jonathan swift is worth looking into.
So yeah, I'd say the free markets are working.
I don't have an opinion on free vs. regulated, but I wouldn't agree that free markets are working the way you claim.
The same result applies to software security.
If only we had a government, things like this couldn't possibly happen.
Oh, wait...
fun quotes:
But when federal limits are breached, and officials believe that a recall is necessary, their only option is to ask the producer to remove the product voluntarily. Even then, officials may only request a recall when they have proof that the meat is already making customers sick. As evidence, the F.S.I.S. typically must find a genetic match between the salmonella in a victim’s body and the salmonella in a package of meat that is still in the victim’s possession, with its label still attached.
In the United States food is regulated by the Department of Agriculture. Its FDA regulates food and drug safety. The rest of it works with farmers to increase production and ensure food is produced in volume at the lowest cost.
I think you can see the problem here :-(
We have the same problem at the Department of the Interior which regulates open space and its use and takes care of maximizing the land's economic value (i.e. grants mining and other extractive uses like grazing on public lands).
At least the interior department got free drugs and sex from oil company employees while as far as I can tell the ag department doesn't get that kind of "in kind" industry encouragement: http://www.nytimes.com/2008/09/11/washington/11royalty.html
PS: Interior is also responsible with relations with the various tribes, which hasn't worked out too well for them either.
If he really did publish recently, it can hardly be anything else; the olive oil and seafood results are many years old. They are more likely to have inspired him to write the book than the other way around.
Or maybe you want to buy it when it's still alive? At least you can walk it back to your place. But good luck dealing with the killing and the blood.
Sometimes you can buy whole parts of game (a leg or a shoulder maybe) but that's about it! ;-)
Having grown up on the Gulf, I was amazed how cheap snapper was the first time I bought it, then promptly disappointed by how bad it was by comparison.
Sites like these hopefully ride the wave of public frustration and when the fake-food debacle quiets down, it becomes a more regular sort of rating site (i've often wondered which olive oil tastes best, but hard to compare 12 brands when it takes a month to finish 1 bottle)
This is especially concerning for people who try to avoid farmed fish (to minimize inflicting suffering). Farmed catfish has an incredibly high suffering/kg ratio, 6x that of salmon, 30x that of chicken meat, and 1000x that of beef.
http://reducing-suffering.org/how-much-direct-suffering-is-c...
certainly.
The problem with suffering is not that it has the magical quality of being called 'suffering'. The problem with suffering is that it results in poor decision-making. This means two things:
1. For an individual, death does much more to reduce decision-making ability than suffering.
2. Animals don't usually make good decisions regardless. Especially if they were raised to be slaughtered.
No. Just because something bad that happened is in the past, doesn't make it OK that it happened in the first place. (just to be clear, I am ok with killing animals and eating them, I would just prefer that it be done humanely).
I'm afraid I don't understand the argument you are trying to make with the rest of your comment...
>Just because something bad that happened is in the past, doesn't make it OK that it happened in the first place.
It is ok that it happened. It's ok that everything in the past happened. It's not ok to forget that it happened, or to fail to learn from it. But killing something is a great big "fuck you" to that thing's memory and learning facilities, so there's quite a lot of hypocrisy wrapped up in thinking that killing something is ok if it didn't suffer.
Suffering and death are bad for reasons. Those reasons provide proportionality to ethical evaluations.
I believe this to be your central point? It seems we will have to agree to disagree.
If you have a genuine ethical objection to causing suffering to other living creatures, you can be vegan, lacto-vegetarian, or you can eat meat certified as jhatka by a trusted authority. It is never necessary for you to compare suffering ratios.
If you truly want to minimize the pain you send out into the world, it's zero. That is an easily achievable number. Go vegan. Be kind to everyone. Good luck on your path to enlightenment. If you aren't going for zero, why would you bother half-assing it?
For the record, I don't care whether or not my meal has ever screamed in agony. I can still respect the beliefs of those who do care. But I also don't wish to hear any of them preach to me about it, or let them trick me into enduring some sort of ideological sales pitch.
Why, killohurts, of course.
Further, I think you are creating an unhelpful dichotomy between zero and nonzero. This dichotomy is not necessary.
It is reasonable to try to reduce suffering, but not drive it to zero (whatever that might imply). Perhaps there's more to the cost function (e.g., endangered species), or perhaps one is skeptical (like you seem to be) that you can measure suffering precisely enough to drive it to zero.
You say zero is easily achievable, but I doubt this. One can argue that the migrant labor that picked your carrots suffered, or that tiny insects were harmed in harvesting your vegetables (not a strawman: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jain_vegetarianism). I'm not advocating that position, but I do claim that "zero" is not easily achievable, if you look carefully.
> I'm a sado-vegan. I only eat plants that have been proven to actively signal other plants when being killed.
I've never understood why moral vegetarians seem to think that hurting and killing plants is so much better than hurting and killing fleas. Plants are well-established to react to injuries and to communicate to other nearby plants when they're under attack. If you're going to argue that you have a moral obligation not to hurt chickens, you need to at least be ready to argue that you don't have the same obligation not to hurt onions, which feel strongly enough about being attacked that they actively fight back.
People abstain from murder (and rape, though that's much less analogous to the dietary debate) because society sanctions murder and rape, and where it doesn't, because the victims and their families are likely to take exception. (Compare traditional Icelandic law, where killing a person was legal under a variety of circumstances, but concealing the fact that you'd done so was criminal. Consider that the United States fully criminalized rape within marriage in 1993.)
The second of those reasons does not, and will never, apply to food animals. They have no power to take retribution. The first one doesn't, but can; it is the reason Brahmins eat a strict vegetarian diet. But it is not particularly compelling; very few people are impressed by the argument "you should abstain from meat because it makes me happy when I can make other people obey my commands".
And that's what leaves moral vegetarians in the ridiculous position of arguing from known-false premises. It doesn't mean I can't laugh at them for trying.
If you see suffering everywhere you look, the real problem may be in your way of seeing things.
But since suffering (in this context) is an essentially subjective thing, you can't go mixing it with an objective measurement like kilograms and make it more objective. Drawing up a "suffering per kilogram ratio" is exactly as subjective as simply asking whether cows suffer more than fish in the process of becoming human food. It isn't useful to anyone, except possibly those who published the ratios, being little more than an organized expression of their opinions.
The implication I draw from the very existence of a suffering/kg ratio is that those who invented it must believe that there is an acceptable level of suffering that any one person may cause, and that ratio may be a useful tool for staying under that threshold. That's like starting every morning by swearing into the mirror that you won't make any more than two people cry today. If it really is valuable to you that you don't make people cry, why wouldn't you say you don't want to do that to anyone, ever? It may be inevitable that it happens, but a practically unachievable goal is still a goal.
I'd suggest that quantity is one thing to put into the multi-objective optimization problem we all are unconsciously solving. If you choose to interpret it as a threshold, that's OK, but others might treat it differently.
In particular, your construction of "won't make any more than two people cry today" is pure straw man based on your invented threshold rule.
Here's a different analogy. The speed limit on my drive to work today is 65 mph. I drove 70 most of the way. I don't have a hard rule that I can go at most 5 mph over the speed limit, but I do look at [my_speed - limit] as a factor in my driving, and try to keep this difference reasonably small.
But in order to really fit the speeding analogy around animal suffering, you also have to live in a world where speedometers and radar measurement devices don't exist. You're speeding if anyone thinks you might be going faster than the limit, even if nobody can really know for certain.
We don't have any animal suffering meters, or posted limits. We know a limit exists, but we apparently don't know where exactly to draw the line. Clearly, a puppy mill that abuses its livestock and runs pit fights will get the operator thrown in jail. But a battery farm that slices the beaks off of chickens and crams them into cages too small for them to stand in will get ag-gag laws that protect the owners from both punishment and scrutiny. Dogs are cuter than chickens, and less marketable as food, you see. In that world--the world we live in--a suffering per kilogram ratio is just pissing into the wind.
You could go with millihitlers. https://www.reddit.com/comments/dlu96/new_si_unit_one_hitler...
How easy would it be to pass a regular banana off as an organic banana? How easy is it to label one thing as something else? Makes you think a bit.
Before I seem contrarian, I will note that I love sashimi, and of course I can tell the difference between tuna and salmon sashimi. I don't want to think I have a dull tongue, but other times, when I'm just hungry, I don't care. I see the point of worrying about being ripped off when thinking you are buying high end fish, but if I buy cheap fish in a meal from a stall, I don't really expect much in the way of authenticity, so I'm not sure I would care. Perhaps I am just more forgiving.
However, isn't the toxicity of the meat is a separate issue? I have no idea how the FDA tests for that (sample testing?) but it probably isn't just discrimination on the species of the fish.
Aside from that, it could have health ramifications. Most people eat organic to avoid herbicide exposure, and most people use olive oil because it's considered healthy. Obviously there are countless examples. You should get what you pay for.
If I don't care what kind of fish I am getting, I order fish and chips, or fish tacos.
If I care what kind of fish, I order tuna or eel or salmon or trout...
One might make a choice based on mercury content, environmental friendliness, dietary restrictions (medical or philosophical), to support (or abstain from supporting) a particular industry, or something else entirely.
To allow fraud which can't be detected on the palate is to deny buyers their freedom to choose based on any criteria other than taste.
It is not up to the producer what criteria buyers use when choosing their purchases.
Also, if the consumer shouldn't care, the producer shouldn't either. If the producer thinks it shouldn't matter what it says on the label, well then... no harm in putting the right thing on the label, right? No? I guess it matters then.
It's been banned in Japan for 40 years.
The USDA banned it in the 90s and then unbanned it in 1998.
Here's another perspective on it, how often will you notice? If you don't then does it matter?
A few years ago I purchased some olive oil while overseas from an outfit that was literally running a large machine pressing olives in front of me.Shocking, the oil actually smelled like olives vs the stuff in the bottle, which usually smells like nothing. That oil also had a sharp olive taste which is actually missing from the store purchased stuff as well. There is a bit of an olive oil industry starting in texas as well, and that stuff when purchased directly from a farm (orchard?) tastes like olives as well. Makes me wonder if 100% of the olive oil i've been purchasing in the last decade is fake, or per some of the articles strongly cut.
BTW: Its not a function of the age either AFAIK, I purchased nearly a gallon when overseas and it lasted me over a year, all the while maintaining the distinctive smell and taste.
A place that is doing something like artisanal premium extra virgin olive oil (which is what it sounds like you were getting) should have exactly the relation to generic "olive oil" that you describe, even if nothing involved is fake or adulterated in any way.
Which is not to say a lot of what you are buying as generic "olive oil" might not be fake (there's plenty of independent reason to suspect that), but what you describing doesn't really indicate that.
[1] http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0006320708...
Fake fish is a real health threat. Farmed fish from SE Asia often contains liver fluke eggs. If you eat these raw you can get cancer of the bike duct. See http://m.cancer.org/cancer/bileductcancer/detailedguide/bile....
That isn't scare mongering. I got this cancer five years ago and now am dying from it. The only cause I could see that made sense was sushi made from raw farmed fish.
http://www.freshplaza.com/article/120094/China-30-40-procent...
Yes, there's even fake tofu.