Rock climber Alex Honnold doesn’t experience fear like the rest of us
nautil.us
nautil.us
> Nowhere in the fear center of Honnold’s brain could the neuroscientist spot activity.
Could this be solely accounted for in the selection of pictures and experience of the participant? Compare e.g. the response to the sound of explosions for someone that has lived in the US vs. someone who has lived in Damascus the past couple years.
edit: Not sure why this is being down-voted? Is there a detailed description of methodology that I missed somewhere?
I'm a high sensation seeker - I don't climb, but I do skydive, bungee, and I love to ski at ludicrous speed down unmarked terrain - flying off a cornice that you didn't see and having to think fast about where and how to land is a crazy rush. Why I mention this - I can identify with the visualisation and memory rewrite process he describes. I am, by no means, master of my amygdala - but more often than not I am. I think about the bad possibilities of anything I'm about to do, and visualise avoiding or dealing with them. I rehearse in my head. By the time I get to the real thing it's old hat. There's no fear, just supreme confidence that I know what I'm doing. It's the same sort of process one goes through before pitching to a customer or investors. Rehearse mentally until it's easy, even if you've never done it before.
When I do have an unfortunate experience, like chopping off a thumb, knocking myself out, or shattering a hand because I forgot that trees are quite hard at 100mph, I revisit it until it's funny, and no longer regrettable and associated with pain, both in my own mind and by recounting the tale. Having a wilful disregard for the integrity of your own body is quite useful - I know I'm not bulletproof but I don't mind the missing and numb bits.
That all said, once in a while I find myself with shaking legs, tunnel vision, and all the rest - usually from stupid and inconsequential shit that, critically, I didn't anticipate - like his ten foot fall.
I remember the moment I figured it out, aged seven, halfway down an icey mogul black, panicking and crying, and then suddenly realising that I didn't know what I was scared of - and then blasting down the piste, realising that it was all about just believing that you can and it'll all be fine and just getting on with it.
Anyway. My two cents is that you can self modify and override "hardwired" behaviour with only moderate conscious effort, and far more people do this than we currently realise.
That line reads like it'd be the intro to a bad (or good?) action movie.
I've been obsessed with climbing ever since, and progressed from furniture to trees to nearby buildings, and it wasn't until I was 16 I finally got my own car and gear and independently made the 4 hour drive to the nearest natural vertical face to climb it. This was in the early 90s, before climbing gyms were common.
Though I decided not long after, after spending most of a day stranded 2/3rds of the way up a cliff that I had taken it as far as I was willing to go as a free soloist.
Alex Honnold is something else.
There was a ledge to the right of where I got hung up that led safely out of the danger zone, but it was just out of my reach, I tried traversing over to that ledge about 30 times before deciding my only option was to go back down the sketchy crack I came up.
No one would have rescued me, I was in the middle of nowhere.
I take it you didn't climb this route before, and were trying to flash it ? How did you handle your emotions, it must have been really difficult to keep them under control in order to get down safely ?
I did pull myself together, obviously, and when I finally committed to going back down, I was in control and systematic about it, but the experience left me rattled, and for a couple years after that I stuck to nice, safe single pitch sport climbing routes. That's why I'm me and not Alex Honnold I guess, he goes and does it again the next day.
And that was pretty much the end of my free soloing career, too...
I'm by no means discounting his accomplishments and skills, but rather highlighting that it isn't quite as reckless as it first appears.
[1]: http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/alex-honnold-onsigh...
At lower grades he has been known to just go for it.
Rarely does anyone make even climbing news climbing 5.14, as the limit now for sport climbing is 5.15c and bouldering is V16. There are routes rated 5.14 at the gym I frequent that get sent nightly. Granted I live in Boulder CO, lots of pro climbers do as well, and grades at gyms are often soft, but still...
The last time 5.14 was newsworthy was the first female ascent of a trad. route in Boulder Canyon
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web16b/newswire-china-doll-5.14-...
and the Dawn Wall, which is 32 pitches,
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/dawn-wall-free/109951912
a few of which are rated 5.14.
Perhaps Ashima makes news climbing 5.14's, but it's also because she's still a teenager.
There's a dude that works as a routesetter at my gym that just sent 5.15. His instagram was pretty popular for a while, but he's just a dude.
http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/jon-cardwell-sends-b...
5.14 made big news 25 years ago with routes like Action Directe. Things have progressed since then.
IMHO rating comparing a one pitch 5.14 and a 11 pitch 5.12 is comparing two different things. :shrug:
There's some truth to this. Just today, I was bouldering next to a dude that look somewhat familiar. Turns out it's Paul Robinson, just here traveling through town.
Took a few tries to nail a V12 set, didn't even look like he broke a sweat.
What do they even shoot that video with? Is there a helicopter flying around him while he climbs? Maybe a small drone or something? The helicopter would be pretty unnerving I suppose, and it's probably even more dangerous to fly a helicopter that close to a stone wall.
Eskil Ronningsbakken - http://www.eskilbalance.com/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Phl82D57P58
He really is something else.
He seems genuinely sick of discussion about death, which at first shocked me (shouldn't someone tell him that almost every free soloist dies?! It's irresponsible not to!).
But if you listen to him, it's immediately apparent that he's fully cognizant of the situation. After just a few minutes even I was annoyed by the hypocrisy and judgment when someone questioned his risk assessment. And he has to deal with that almost every time he interacts with people outside of his inner circle. I can hardly imagine how frustrating that must be.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Free_solo_climbing#Notable_acc...
One of my favorite climbers and free soloists, Dan Osman, also died in an accident but not while free soloing. He was doing a 1000 ft rope jump (jumping from a cliff while connected to a climbing rope and catching oneself while trying not to slam back into the cliff face) when his rope snapped.
Here's two videos of him doing a rope jump and of him free soloing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EilwLq7w1bs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wYbwZQ-QnMY (note the "dyno" at 1:09)
If you mean, "died while freesoloing", you've got,
* Derek Hersey * John Bachar
off the top of my head. There are others,
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Free_solo_climbing#Notable_acc...
Dan Osman died from a roped fall (jumped with the intent of the rope system to slow his fall), not a free solo. Dean Potter died from a wingsuit accident, which "literally" is probably the most dangerous hobby.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_fatalities_due_to_wing...
"72 percent of fliers had witnessed death or serious injury, and 76 percent had experienced what they categorized as a “near miss.” http://www.newsweek.com/2014/09/12/thrilling-deadly-world-wi...
Dean Potter on Heaven, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRUkolahw58
I mean that only 90% facetiously.
This is indeed all too true, but surprisingly very few of them actually die while free soloing. It's nearly always something they took up later that was even more dangerous, such as base jumping, rope jumping, motorcycle riding, etc. that gets them. And even when it is rock climbing that does it, it tends to be on an easier route, with objective chance (Hersey) or suicide (Bachar) eventually deciding things.
One thing you can say about most serious free soloists is that they know their limits on rock.
I do aerial acrobatics, I've tried to battle fear of heights when being 5/10m up and making a drop, having to be sure that I did the correct moves and the rope will stop my fall. The only safety I have is a 2 by 2m crash mat that won't protect me from broken bones. Not to mention that falling to the mat in the wrong position or outside of the mat will also have potentially serious consequences. And yet when I don't have it, something goes off in my mind and it gets much scarier. I'm afraid of doing anything, even the most inconsequential moves.
Fear is irrational, and I've realised that safety is sometimes psychological and misleading. You'll likely put yourself in more dangerous situations by having a safety net, and knowing you can fail. Thing is, safety also fails, and you can also fail in setting up the safety material (knots, ropes, mats).
My point: This guy knows the consequences of every move, will be much careful in execution of every step. Much more than if he had a rope. He can't afford to get distracted, while someone with a rope will likely pay less attention to details.
I read some time ago about a drug treatment program centered around rock climbing, said to have astonishingly high success rates. But then I never heard much more about it. Perhaps it doesn't scale due to small supply of climbing teachers and/or large supply of skeptics?
Do you have a link for the study?
"The guy was a sociopath on a bicycle. As far as I'm concerned, we got off easy!"
Just keep him on the rocks...
Also, anxiety is not the same as fear. Literally being unable to feel fear would be very dangerous.
Kelly Slater and I'm sure many other athletes have expressed a similar sentiment.
I suspect there are other professionals, mathematicians, physicians, playwrights, who have a similar sentiment. I wonder if a rather simple model of this is that their neural nets are highly optimized for the task. And if that's the case, is that a tell for a task that can or can't be automated?
Can a machine drop into a triple-overhead wave and throw improv tricks with grace? What does grace mean to the machine? Dignity?
[1]http://www.nytimes.com/2015/01/15/sports/el-capitans-dawn-wa...
In Honnold's case, they may be safe from this, as it's the total absence of signal relative to a control subject that is interesting, not activity in some unexpected region of the brain.
Why can't they make some device for him, say, a thick-ish belt, which will make him hang inside of a sphere full of compressed gas, after a second of free fall? Not unlike how car SRS work?
Why don't ships have inflatable balloons strapped to their hulls that would allow them to float indefinitely? We still have sinking ferries with hundreds dead that could perhaps been fully prevented?
Probably because the inflation of such a sphere, like an airbag going off, would be an incredibly violent event in itself. Also, decelerating inside the confines of a small sphere wouldn't be much gentler than just hitting the ground at full speed.
Some sort of jet-assist contraption to slow your descent might be a better bet. It would arm itself when it senses that you've fallen, and fire the next time it senses that it's upright.
I have a feeling that a lot of people who die in this sport are either paralyzed or dead before they hit the ground, due to collisions with outcroppings in the rock face. Free climbing isn't something that you would want to do if you have the slightest concern for your own neck, and I don't think any number of Rube Goldberg gadgets will change that.
Because it's fun.
One may sense tremendeous joy seeing new flowers in the spring and vast sense of disappointment missing a train when next leaves 15 minutes later.
In order to get the same sensations, some other needs to success in something in which a failure would mean death, or fail in something very difficult that he/she has been working on years.
Now, if you force the first person to not have those sensations, what will happen? I find it a very possible outcome that the life becomes so unbearable that the person is ready to kill him/herself. If this is remotely correct, it should be quite easy to see why some people are ready to take fatal risks voluntarily. To feel something.