Japan: It's Not Funny Anymore
kotaku.com
kotaku.com
Culture shock is not OMG they eat X here. Culture shock develops slowly from the stress of being away from home and living in a strange land. You are long over people eating X or what ever, and then one day you're just sick of it all. Not exactly ALL of it, but you tend to fixate on the defects of the strange place you're in and you're in a perpetually bad mood, very similar to the stressed out shitty mood someone quiting smoking is always in.
Some of the points he makes are valid. There is lard in bread, I think that's MUCH better then the hydrogenated fats of margarine. Lard may not be good for you, but it is better then the alternatives.
And smoking is definitely bad for you. And as an European I feel that American corporate culture bleeds far too far into everyone's personal life, much like how the author feels about corporate partying in Japan.
The no-real friends thing also strikes me as something I can say about Americans, who from my perspective seem to have trouble forming deep adult friendships.
But the author and I have two options, get over it or go home.
The curious thing about culture shock is that it never strikes in the very first moments of awe when you just arrive. It takes a little while. But then you tend to get over it and then many months or some times years later it hits you again, and this time it is WORSE. And many immigrants/ex-pats never got over the second wave. They (we!) just end up pissed off at the host culture.
* EVERY JAPANESE POP SONG IS ABOUT THE SAME THING * Yeah, that's kind of every pop song period. And this attitude is a classing sign of culture shock.
I didn't get culture shock in Tokyo, because it's just so different to everywhere else I'd been that I completely stopped the usual comparisons and just gave up.
London, though - London just about killed me in one day.
I was a mess when I was younger.
This guy is writing this after living 5 years in Japan. I would therefore not dismiss this as simple culture shock, it's a genuine critique of a culture after he's become accustomed to it.
Puerto Rico did this to me over the course of about five years. I can't stay on-island for more than about a year or I flip out. Up here in the States proper has done this to my (Hungarian) wife over the course of about fifteen years. Her limit is about two years.
It doesn't go away.
This has been my story ever since I was born. One nice thing about not fitting in is that you become friends with others who don't fit in, who tend to be the most interesting people.
I try - with partial success - to live as though being born in some place was pure chance and to try to lose the myopic view of life that you get when you keep seeing things through the lens of home. It's a mixed success, and I haven't even lived in places that were very different from the one that I was born in.
For me the 'security blanket' seems to be cheese. As long as I can find a good chunk of cheese somewhere I can deal with the rest. Selling cheese at exorbitant prices to immigrants must be a great way to make money.
Having been through it, and having watched hundreds of other people go through it during. I have no doubt that part of this rant is due to culture shock/enculturation difficulties.
As a rough generalization, there are several stages of enculturation (adapting to living in a different culture). The first stage is the actual culture shock. It generally takes 1-12 months to get over the initial, "OMG they eat Foo!" or figure out what end of the chopsticks to pick food out of the serving bowl with or how to buy groceries, or what side of the cheek to kiss as a greeting, or how low to bow to what people.
After the initial culture shock, there's generally a honey moon phase where everything is seen as wonderful an exciting and so much better than in the old country. That phase can last anywhere from 6 months to 3 years.
Frequently from year 2-6, post move, the honeymoon fades. The "flaws" in the new culture become increasingly apparent, and people get critical and frustrated at their adopted country. Cultural differences are seen as stupid, or backwards.
Slowly, after 4-6 years, people tend to get more accustomed to the new country. They start to adapt, and adopt the new culture as their own, and they feel a lot more at home. Some families I grew up with never made that transition.
I spent the first 14 years of my life living in Cost Rica and Honduras. I've been in the US for over 20 years. And, now, after being, "home" for 20 years, I'm finally starting to feel like I might belong in the US. Moving to the Bay Area, where there's a much bigger multi-cultural vibe helps. Had I stayed in the rural Midwest where my parents live, I would have gone apeshit. Still, after 20 years, some things about the US drive me crazy. I could have written a similar rant at many points the last 20 years.
I'm a lot of geek immigrants/expats could write a similar rant about their host country. Just ask your coworker engineer friends about the US immigration process. :) I know my parents ranted from time to time about life in Costa Rica or Honduras from time to time. They lived down there for 20 years. And, even though they got really pissed off from time to time, it didn't change their love of either country.
But the US still drives me batty. It's just that houses are so damn cheap here.
Uh...
The way the society is structured might help develop these friendships or might prevent them. For example, were I was growing up (in ex Soviet Union), the school was structured such that you could end up being in the same class with mostly the same people for 12 years. Not just the same school -- but the same class. So if you never move (more on that later), you would end up knowing the same 30 people very well. One or two of them might become your good friends.
Now school is just one factor, the other is how transient people are. It used to be that people would be born, grow up and live most of their lives in one city. That means you probably will still have your fiends from since you were 5 living in the same city. In some countries, people move more, mostly because of jobs I guess. It is very hard to form deep friendships when you are moving every 4 years. Yes, you have many acquaintances but not too many friends.
I thought about this quite a bit. By now I lived half of my life in the "old world" and half in US. I can still skype, chat and email back and forth with my childhood buddies, but it is just not the same. I think good friendships need real face to face contact. I am making friends at work, but there is always an apprehension and competitiveness involved. They'll never be the same kind of friends I had growing up. Or maybe I became a different kind of person (too apprehensive, too withdrawn) that nobody would want to be best friends with ...?
People often just don't get to know one another on a deep level. We also tend to move around a bit, which makes maintaining friendships hard.
Now, that's not true for everyone, but it's been a lot of my experience.
The problem is that American society treats success and failure as proving signs of personal merit, so everyone has to create a veneer of uninterrupted and effortless success because to seem like anything other than a rockstar signals weakness and despondency. This makes real emotional intimacy impossible.
for some people, living long-term in another culture is hard. i certainly find it so at times. and this is despite being completely aware of the issue, the validity of other belief / social systems, etc etc.
it's a malaise at a very deep level - not something that can be addressed by conscious platitudes. i don't have a solution, apart from just continuing.
[ps the way i see it, our subconscious is "programmed" at a very early stage in our development, and is much less adaptable than our conscious. what we're talking about here is the result of long-term attrition between those subconscious assumptions and an inconsistent (but, or course, completely valid) reality. in some ways, respecting the other culture makes it harder - you can't simply dismiss it (except for periods of anger - i would guess this article was written in such a time). i also sometimes wonder if those that don't suffer this are simply repressing / unconnected with their subconscious to such a degree that they are unaware... the alternative is that their subconscious somehow adapts.]
The ironic part was that he would begridgingly list all the good points about living here too. In the end, he became a tangled mess. He disliked and liked being here, and also disliked and liked the idea of returning home. Sounds kindof the the same with the dude in this article. You feel like telling him to just pack his bags and return home, but you know that he won't because he'd miss the good parts of living in Tokyo and end up complaining about the US instead.
A major part of this is to do with always drawing comparisons to your original culture as a source of familiarity. The natives don't draw such comparisons. To them there is no "better" or "crappier" place. It's not Japanese work-life, it's just work-life. It's not Japanese food, it's food. Home is home, and that's just how things are.
After listening to my French friend, reading this article, and reading your comment, it seems to me that romantacising aspects of your home culture whenever you're pissed off about something in your host culture (and vice-versa), though inevitable, alomost never leads to happiness.
Huh, I had the opposite experience when I worked for a small Dutch company. The amount of enforced merry-making (not to mention all the emphasis on consensus-formation) really got on my nerves. Never saw anything like it when I was working for American companies. It did remind me of my brief career in Tokyo --- I'm not the only one to have noticed the superficial similarities between Dutch and Japanese corporate culture [1], though apparently if you dig deeper it's not as similar as it looks.
Of course, this may simply be a quirk of the industry I was in at the time (options trading). It may also be a consequence of me rubbing Dutch people the wrong way (when excusing myself from company bowling/drinking/whatever trips or expressing dissenting opinions), while knowing how not to rub American people the wrong way because I'm a lot more familiar with their culture.
[1] e.g. Joop Stam has done a lot of research on this: http://www.mb.utwente.nl/oohr/staff/professorate/stam/
My experience working both for several companies and for myself outsourcing myself to companies is that there's a pretty wide range of corporate cultures here in the Netherlands. Going from the enforced merry-making (which is an awesome description, since it makes me retch!) to much, much more easy going environments.
There seems to be a non-romance/love existential philosophy/angst genre of pop songs. The Japanese version seems to use a different set of pastoral imagery than the American one, and much more of it. Not sure what that means.
http://gaijinhostsabin.justin-klein.com/the-rules-of-the-gam...
But as some comments indicate, some (or most) of the author's problems are actually not idiosyncratic to Japan. Although he has valid points, his problems will just stay there in different shapes even if he leaves Japan.
Their articles had a high incident of insight to them that was largely the result of repeated deconstruction and re-examination of the game design of various 80s-era classics. Quite often the articles (some of which read a lot like the linked article) were pretty entertaining.
Bringing personal experience into the essay or game review was always the point, and Tim in particular tended to go off on completely wild tangents and write in an almost incoherent and stream of consciousness style (perhaps, "style"); from memory, in one review he pauses to go cook a burrito, then describes the burrito cooking process, before resuming what he was writing about the actual game in question.
This article is pretty classic Tim Rogers: an extremely long exploration of an idea that touches on some interesting (if perhaps apocryphal) stories or facets of that idea, but may or may not have a coherent underlying vision or message.
There are a few potentially "important" things that I hope escapes IC and its graduates and becomes more mainstream. Reviews that explain the context of their creation, and reviews that examine the philosophy of the game design. Unfortunately these are hard, require work, and don't look any better on the glossy page. Some examples:
Rogers wrote a fantastic review[1] of Romancing Saga: Minstrel Song that starts off by chronicling the entire career of its designer (Kawazu) and reviewing some of his earlier games with depth and insight. There are clear patterns evident in his early games, which are then used to give context to and explain the current game under review.
The second is probably my favorite video game review, which is of Windwaker by Eric-Jon Rossel Waugh[2]. EJRW is a better and more insightful (but less colorful) writer than Rogers, but perhaps not as colorful. He made an old forum post I distinctly remember lamenting the laziness of linear game design, which is something of a cliche. When challenged for an alternative, he backed it up with a very interesting review of the use of "danger" rather than contrivances like keys or inventory items as a limit on exploration in Dragon Quest/The Legend of Zelda.
As for this particular posting of Tim's, I don't really have much more to comment. Like I said in my original comment, it's classic Tim Rogers, and it's hard to explain what "classic Tim Rogers" is without just pointing people to another 15-20 articles similar in construction and content. It feels odd to write about it in a familiar tone since I was largely a lurker at IC (as I am here).
[1] http://www.largeprimenumbers.com/article.php?sid=saga
[2] http://www.insertcredit.com/reviews/windwaker/windwaker1.htm...
Long ago, manga aspired to be like Dragon Ball Z: graphically iconic, with a story more coherent than it probably needed to be. Now there's the ADHD-addled Dragon-Ball-Z-inspired One Piece, a manga for the Twitter age if there ever was one.
Pop culture was best when you, the reader of this sentence, were 12: http://i46.tinypic.com/1625ims.gifI remember watching DBZ after school, and while it is certainly "graphically iconic", there is no legitimate way to claim it has a coherent plot. It seems like the author is remembering his Saturday morning cartoons through some rose-tinted cokebottles.
I won't even touch "Anime is terrible. It used to be okay."
It feels like reality has settled in and his daily life has some deeper rooted problems than the stickers being placed on the barcode a certain a way.
Regardless he gives a view of the culture that you don't often hear about.
That is not a word that should ever exist... yet I cannot imagine a better description.
"Constipating" xD So awesomely descriptive. I'll be chuckling about this for quite a while (earning crazy-looks from random passers-by)!
Then again, I used to watch TMNT after school and to this day will maintain that it was actually quite funny, even though someone older than me will, with some justification, villify that as well.
Some of this article was worth reading. The complaints about how things used to be better, however, were not.
You might have experienced a bad, emasculated version which was aired in America, stripped down to nothing but fight scenes and completely devoid of anything involving adult life. That version really sucked.
- No ordinary schmoes who turn out to have amazing supernatural powers.
- Nothing that revolves around a series of contests with enemies of escalating power.
- No robots or exoskeletons.
- It would be nice if the central character was an adult. An adult whose love interest is not an adolescent.
- While I'm on that topic, nothing that will make people think I'm a pervert if they catch me reading it.
So, while I was wroting this up, I started checking out the lists of mangas that had been previously recommended in the forum, and I started to feel like I was shitting all over everything they loved, so I decided not to post my request. People talk quite a lot about manga being a serious art form for adults. Am I missing something?
Here are some manga / anime recommendations. Some have not been licensed for distribution in the US, or have been only partially released here, so you will need to hunt a bit for fansubs. I watch only the animated adaptations, as they're easier to hide, but feel free to order the original manga versions if you don't feel ashamed about reading comic books. Not all are adaptations -- the movies, and a few television series, are original animations.
- Monster < http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monster_%28manga%29 >
- Planetes < http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Planetes >
- Mushishi < http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mushishi >
- Mononoke < http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mononoke_%28TV_series%29 >
- Tokyo Godfathers < http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tokyo_Godfathers >
If you're willing to relax your standards a bit, there are many outstanding series aimed at younger viewers.
- Denno Coil < http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denn%C5%8D_Coil >
- Yokohama Shopping Trip < http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yokohama_Kaidashi_Kik%C5%8D >
- Kino's Journey < http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kino%27s_Journey >
- Cromartie High School < http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cromartie_High_School >
- My Neighbor Totoro < http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/My_Neighbor_Totoro > , or almost anything else by Studio Ghibli < http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Studio_Ghibli >
- The Girl Who Leapt Through Time < http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Girl_Who_Leapt_Through_Time >
- Yotsuba&! < http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yotsuba&! >
P.S. I just added "The Girl Who Leapt Through Time" to my Netflix queue, and Netflix suggested something called "Xxxholic" for me. Well... I won't prejudge, but that kind of thing certainly doesn't help dispel stereotypes.
"xxxHolic" is a weird Japan-glish word; you can read it as "____-aholic". I've not seen the series and can't recommend either way, but from the Wikipedia article it looks like something you'd not enjoy.
Online recommendation engines seem to break when dealing with Japan-related topics; I don't know why, but it could be that some people will watch anything if it's 1) animated 2) from Japan, so the engines build false associations between wildly different works. This happens in music also -- I once listened to an orchestral re-imagining of some soundtrack by the Tokyo Philharmonic, and now Last.FM won't stop recommending awful j-pop.
My personal all-time favorite, though, goes to The Twelve Kingdoms. http://anidb.net/perl-bin/animedb.pl?show=anime&aid=26
I've recently seen "Beyond the Clouds", which was also very good: http://anidb.net/perl-bin/animedb.pl?show=anime&aid=469
The anime version of Kino's Journey is probably my favourite anime.
Wikipedia link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nausicaä_of_the_Valley_of_the_W...
Well, that's the geek media.
Worse, it's the young-geek media - most of that stuff is marketed to teenage guys. Admittedly, it's really hard to find anything else in the US because young geeks have been the primary source of demand for Japanese animation and comics. We mostly get the Bleaches and the Hellsings and whatnot.
It's as if the rest of the world only got SF and Fantasy movies out of Hollywood. There's stuff to love there, to be sure, but it's a necessarily limited sampling.
Actually most of the books by Jiro Taniguchi are really good, they are mostly simple touching story that give a good glimpse of japanese culture and the relationship between people.
http://www.amazon.com/DISTANT-NEIGHBORHOOD-Jiro-Taniguchi/dp...
http://www.amazon.com/Distant-Neighborhood-2-Jiro-Taniguchi/...
I agree with others that the anime point is probably off-target. Nostalgia is a big component of thinking things used to be better than they are.
The insights into Japanese company-culture are fascinating. American corporations do make people do some incredible bullshit, but nothing on the level of the official greeting he mentioned. The standing around on the street thing and yelling is entirely odd.
I also liked some of the points about the subliminal impact of self-deprecating language. From what I've read, and from the few movies I've seen that deal with Japanese culture, it _does_ seem like there's something about it that forces an distance between people that is hard to bridge. The host clubs and the separate master bedrooms are a fascinating symptom of this problem.
Wal-Mart makes their employees do this every morning, and they are the largest private employer in the US. IIRC there is footage of this is The High Cost of Low Prices.
I agree with your comment in general though. This article should pretty much be required reading for everyone in the US, since at least to me it's pretty clear that in another 20 years life here is going to resemble either Idiocracy or Japan depending on your socio-economic status.
On my way to my office here in Bangalore, I once saw a team do the "Walmart cheer" ("Give me a W" ...) in the lobby of another office in the same building. All the offices in the building were sw dev companies I am not sure if they had a sw dev team here or outsourced some stuff (probably the latter) but it was quite early in the morning and most of the people looked half asleep and the rest acutely embarrassed. I'd rather quit then take part in such nonsense. Starting every work day feeling like an idiot must be quite draining.
It does have some interesting snapshots of Japanese culture in there but they are bookended by too many personal rants based on the author's peculiarities so the result is part travelogue, part social criticism, part gaming commentary, part manifesto.
Come now, you're not even trying. If you're going to be smugly derogatory toward people who enjoy some bit of Japanese popular culture, the technical term is "weeaboo".
He starts off by saying the reason he doesn't like Japan is he doesn't like anime. How high brow did you think the responses would be?
Many of his complaints just sounds xenophobic. Sure, some of the things sounds absurd, but I'm sure plenty of US customs would sound equally absurd to the Japanese.
And many of his complaints seem pretty absurd to me. Like complaining that they put a piece of tape on his drink if he doesn't get it in a bag. They do that in US grocery stores too, for milk.
For me, the most fascinating part about the Japanese society is the pastiche of mannerisms, catchphrases, and behaviors -- all copied from somewhere and never coming from an individual. There is a constant checking and double-checking that one is acting accordingly. These clues, on how to act, what to say, how to say it and when, are provided by tradition (easy defaults), television show hosts, celebrities, everything and anything external except from within.
At first it might seem that yelling something is a subjective show of raw, emotions, something very personal and unique, a show of anger or excitement, but in reality it is just a formula that is repeated many times, probably accompanied by a total inner apathy.
> From what I've read, and from the few movies I've seen that deal with Japanese culture, it _does_ seem like there's something about it that forces an distance between people that is hard to bridge.
It seems that both parties know they are participating in a formality theater but nobody wants to be the first to say "ah, fuck it, this is ridiculous".
Because of this drinking and participation in drinking if _very_ important. That is the only time when formality is allowed to be suspended and some semblance of real thoughts and feeling come out. It is the only time when you might find out what your perspective client really thinks about your product, or how loyal your employee really is.
While I agree that the way they shout good morning might be a bit strange, it does make sense. It makes everyone more polite, instead of rude. And speaking of politeness, Americans are way too informal compared to other cultures. As for greetings, I hate the "How do you do?" question which I think is pretty stupid/useless as this video shows - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-p8u2LSyEwc
Excessive formality, on the other hand, has been implicated in e.g. plane crashes, where inferiors hesitate to criticize their superiors when they may have made a mistake.
Lack of formality does not necessarily imply practical problems, it's mostly about respect. As for rules in general, let's also look at HN where you can't complain about a submission, you can only flag it. I think you'll agree with me when I say that this rule is a bit odd for a Reddit user.
Reddit, on the other hand, does not fare well in a comparison with HN, for my money. But I don't necessarily see a strong connection between formality and civility. One can be most uncivil even in the most stilted of tones.
Much of this is a critique of salaryman culture. Salaryman culture is bananas, a bi-polar combination of Kafka-esque hallucinatory boredom during the day, and 'girls gone wild' at night. Except, it isn't girls going wild, it's 48 year old men. It's interesting for about 2 weeks, and then becomes completely tedious, and slightly scary if you care about your health at all. I'm astonished that the Japanese still top the life expectancy charts.
When I wasn't working, I hung out with artists, skaters and surfers. I visited small towns on weekends and spent a lot of time at the beach. Life outside of Tokyo and the salaryman grind is much more relaxed, fun, and "good" weird instead of "WTF" weird.
Whenever I have a friend interested in relocating to Japan I plead with them to NOT work at a Japanese office. Only go there to work if you're the best fixed-gear bike welder, or are a popular underground DJ, or some other sort of "big in japan" folk hero. Anything that keeps you out of salaryman-land.
You may have to make different choices though. It's probably possible to be a teetotalling vegetarian in Japan, but you might have to go to a monastery or something. Whereas you could easily be a games developer with those traits in the USA.
For instance, he seems to be able to communicate in Japanese but he still doesn't grasp that "otsukaresama" and "irasshaimase" are really only greetings. I wonder what would be his reaction if he heard that in some places it's usual to say "ohayou gozaimasu" (usually meaning "good morning") when you get to the office in the evening.
Mandatory parties aren't really mandatory, you see. Many Japanese do "escape" the parties. You just have to do it tactfully. And so on.
That said, I agree with you about avoiding working in a Japanese office. The usual English teaching path seems to work for a lot of people, though.
I know that I love booze and meat so I'm not going to relocate to Bangalore any time soon.
I suggest he chills out and learns to go with the flow sometimes. But happiness is probably the last thing this guy wants, he's the type of guy who thrives on finding things at fault.
Plenty of Booze and meat in Bangalore. Good Pubs, not so much.
Not to say I didn't enjoy my stay, on the contrary I loved it; but I wouldn't move there and act indignant because I couldn't get good quality wine and steak.
The point was to illustrate that Southern India is a culture inclined to vegetarian food and not drinking. And while you _can_ find meat (and some semblance of wine) in Bangalore it's hardly the same as New York or Sydney (my two "homes") in that regard.
From what I understand from the article under discussion , purely vegetarian food hardly exists in japan. I have no idea if that is true, but the situation wrt meat is hardly the same in South India, so your comparison above is demonstrably false.
"The point was to illustrate that Southern India is a culture inclined to vegetarian food and not drinking."
Rubbish.
Your stay in Bangalore doesn't lead you to correct generalizations about South India. In Kerala for instance, (one of the four states in South India), practically everyone is a non vegetarian. Hyderabad(in Andhra Pradesh) is famous for its nonvegetarian food, specially Biriyani. You have no idea about the amount of liquor consumed either. Extremely large quantities of liquor are consumed in South India. There is a thriving illegal liquor mafia which would be very interested in your discuvery that South India is "not inclined" to liquor. The people you interacted with during your stay here may have been largely vegetarian, but South India is hardly "inclined" to either vegetarianism or abstinence from alcohol, the way the OP describes Japan as being "inclined to " non vegetarianism.Show me any locality in Bangalore and I'll find you a couple of dozen non vegetarian restaurants in a 5 km radius. And lots of liquor shops.
I've lived here 35+ years. I should know.
I'll grant you that you may not get a steak done the way you want it, but hey I can't get a Masala Dosa in the average restaurant in Arizona. That hardly means Westerners don't "incline" to potatoes (the major filling in a Masala Dosa.
Most South Indian non vegetarians eat Chicken or Lamb (and not primarily Pork or Beef as in the United States). Beef is slightly rarer (but again not in Kerala). You need to distinguish "meat" from the "exact dish I eat in New York". I was saying there was plenty of meat In Bangalore, not sausages made Chicago Style (or whatever). Meat does not dominate the menu as much as in the West, but it is easily available almost everywhere.
Some communities of people, e.g Brahmins or Jains or Buddhists are vegetarians. These are minorities. Large chunks of Hindus, Muslims and Christians are meat eaters (and alcohol drinkers). Apart from these minority communities, People who don't regularly eat meat do so because of economic reasons not any "inclination" to vegetarianism.
As one of those I wouldn't move to India and expect to have my cravings for steak and a nice Bordeaux satisfied with any regularity. Just as I wouldn't move to Japan as a veggo and expect to have my cravings for super awesome tempeh dishes satisfied. And I certainly wouldn't complain about it like that.
Fair Enough! Fwiw, some Indians bitch and moan about American food habits when they move to the USA so I am sure the habit is fairly universal !
Meat is expensive in Japan. I buy a 400 gram steak and a Coke&brandy for $4.63 total.
I'm a vegetarian non-smoker living in a country where nearly everybody smokes and all the native cusine has meat. I also don't like all the word-dancing involved in office-level Japanese, not to mention the office politics, and I especially can't stand the sheer pile of pointless (to me) social protocol.
Because I don't participate in most of what the natives do, I've had a hard time making friends with said natives, and I'm lonely.
There's nothing wrong with me, of course. This is Japan's fault, and they should fix themselves to be more like California.
END ARTICLE SUMMARY
Begin my take:
I'm a native Californian, currently living in Tokyo. Admittedly, I'm not a vegetarian, but I don't smoke, and I agree that a lot of the stuff here can be maddeningly irritating... if you try and apply your own value systems.
But you can't. It's a different country, they do things differently. If you try and fight that, for the most part, you're just going to end up bitter and frustrated. If you're going to live somewhere where the value systems are different, you need to figure out what you need to compromise on in order to keep both yourself and the natives happy.
The one nice thing about being a foreigner, is that because you're a foreigner, you can get away with flaunting a lot of social protocol already. If you even make a solid attempt at observing social niceties, you can totally cock them up, and the Japanese will still be pretty happy that you bothered in the first place.
Patio11-aka-Patrick, please feel to correct me where I'm wrong here. :)
After college, I went to work in a bank in New York. The in-crowd in my group went out for drinks, together, at least three times a week. I never saw any appeal in $10 martinis or $6 beers — especially with a bunch of people with whom I just spent 10 working hours. Needless to say, it did not take long before I was considered "not a team player." (My bosses liked me, so I did well enough before I realized I loathe corporate life and left, but my peers were not fans and caused considerable trouble.)
You are right about this. Pretty much any place I have worked (I'm from the US) has had office parties or other kind of outings. I almost always went because it does help you get to know your boss and co-workers (it was only about once-a-month). I don't really see a problem with it.
Your example of going out three times a week is a bit much (I wouldn't go out that many times a week), but you could have at least gone out with them once-in-awhile to show them that you don't completely hate your co-workers. If you do, you probably shouldn't be working there anyway.
You can't take the human nature/social aspect out of working. If you don't do these things, people will think you are weird/the outsider/don't like them.
Maybe you should run your own business?
I made it a point never to go for one after my first experience. In Bangalore these take weird forms, usually wasting a holiday or a weekend, landing up in some god forsaken "resort", where you can do exciting things like play badminton or carroms, Quoits or Dumb Charades (I kid you not!), or quietly get drunk in a corner, with some of the really bad companies throwing in a few "mission and vision" style speeches from the powers that be.
Once I got a letter from a VP telling me to report to his office and explain why I didn't attend the "office party weekend + mission and vision session" over the previous weekend and I explained (quite diplomatically) that I didn't give a fuck about these things and had no intention of ever attending anything like this in the future either. He seemed completely shocked and speechless and was almost in tears when I left.
My immediate superior later gave me a veiled warning that my " career progress could be affected" by such "unorthodox attitudes" but, strangely enough, it wasn't. I got regular promotions and raises and was "on the leadership track" when I left because work was too boring. They didn't believe my reason for leaving either ("I am bored out of my skull"), because I was a "senior person" (I was 28!!) and was "poised on the leadership ladder" (yes they actually spoke like that!).
These were large companies though. Small (less than 20 people) company parties were often a lot of fun. I am so glad I don't have to work for large companies anymore.
I agree with you there. I now only work for small companies for that very same reason.
The only ubiquitous US workplace social function is the holiday party.
This was the best and most interesting part. The rest were minor cultural gripes; but Japanese corporate culture, from everything I've heard, is severely broken even by our low standards.
American and Japanese corporate conformity seem to be different in one aspect. The Japanese-style conformity, as described by the OP, seems to be about seeming like a "team player" rather than standing out. American-style Wall Street conformity is about the "hungry" image.
The best predictor of who will succeed on Wall Street is commute time (as a negative correlate). This is not because of the long hours or stress, but because of the image one projects by one's choice of neighborhood. (This is also why Manhattan real estate is so expensive; there's a professional stake in one's location.) 40-year-old MDs with families are "allowed" to live in Jersey, but a 24-year-old who lives in Brooklyn is just weird; either he doesn't expect to be successful, or he's saving (gasp!) and might do something funny like launch a startup. No one will get fired for failing to show "hunger", but you definitely won't get promoted.
My experience, however, has shown that "hungry" people (i.e. those with empty or overtly material ambitions) are generally one-dimensional, sociopathic backstabbers with mediocre ideas and whose overall worth is less than nothing.
It's almost as if he's drawn to frustration.
It sounds like he's in this final stage. It sounds like its time to come home.
I say this having the majority of my adult life living in a country far from where I grew up.
I'm in my own mini-crisis myself, and I don't know what to do (emigrating is a bit drastic, but I'm considering it).
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00000I'm not sure what needs commenting. The article is quite in-depth and mostly fits with my experience. I can add an anecdote, perhaps, on this part: The Japanese are so serious about work that even work-related parties are mandatory. If you don't go to a company party, you're not part of the team. If you're not part of the team, it's possible you're not actually working at the company.
This is very real. I live in a university dorm and I'm friend with one of the Japanese assistants working here. He was nearly fired because he wasn't going to nomikai (drinking parties) with the other assistants and the manager often enough. He wasn't going because he had to study for exams and prepare a trip. He got a long email from one of his older colleagues saying that "maybe he wasn't cut out for the residence assistant lifestyle" and that as the youngest one it was his duty to do better to fit in the group. All that even though he was, as far as I could see, the only one to actually socialize with the foreign residents (that's supposed to be his job)...
Incidentally, my university keeps a fairly strict separation between foreign and local students. Exchange students live in the same building as the sports club members for my university (the teams are required to live together), but we're not allowed to go into their area or for them to come. People who learn Japanese here are rather encouraged to stay together and not mix with the Japanese students (except those who want to practice English). It's what they call tatemae/honne: the uni wants to give an air of internationalism, but it doesn't really matter to them if it's true or not - just that it looks like it.
I'm in a way lucky to be in engineering, so that I take all my classes with local students, but I've had to deal with many exceptions and needed special permission from all teachers I take a lesson under. I'm literally the only undergrad exchange student on my campus. To their credit however, I've always felt welcomed by teachers - I feel like a few have travelled and actually wish their students were more exposed to other countries.
I've also seen a professor say to his new undergrad students (unpaid interns) that "from now on, the laboratory lifestyle is going to be the main thing for you" (main in English). Life in Japan is defined by your group, and it mostly goes from school, to laboratory (or intern work), then to the company. At each point people are expected to dedicate a lot of time to being with their group.
That said, I think you may have gotten the wrong impression about what I do for a day job. For about three of the last five years, and continuing through the end of this month, I've had a job that virtually defines Japanese salarymanhood, making Big Freaking Enterprise Web Apps for a multi-national with thousands of employees that is listed on the stock exchange.
Examples?
The company never really had any drinking parties, and from my perspective I wish there had been. On the other hand, I never really worked overtime, never felt pressure to do so, and didn't suffer from any of the other major stereotypical problems.
For the last year I've been running my own consulting firm here. Around me it seems like there are many other people do their own innovative things here, but maybe those are just the circles I run in.
It externally seems that I should have a similar opinion of Japan as him because I am not Japanese and I seem to have had similar experiences. Yet my exposure to the culture from birth leaves me taking for granted a lot of what he fights.
When I first came to Canada to study in university I had grudges toward the culture and way of life and I hadn't noticed until now why that was. It was because my perception of "how things work" was challenged.
That's actually due to the plastic used, it's not from smoke.
I went to high school in Japan for a year, so I disagree with some of the author's points. Nobody tried to isolate me from the "real" students, for example. Nobody really cared that I was different from them; there was too much other stuff to worry about (exams, extracurricular activities, etc.) I think a lot of people think that they are going to get special treatment for being white, and then don't, and then call it racism. (And admittedly, there is a little of that from normal people, and it is usually cleared up when you are able to explain your situation in Japanese. Same as any culture -- until you speak their language, you are considered retarded. We do it in the US, too.)
Anyway, I know a lot of people in Japan that are software developers, and they opt out of the whole "salaryman" thing too. In the end, it's your choice how to spend your life. There is the easy path of least resistance, but if you don't like that, then you can do something else. Just like everywhere else in the world.
The only thing I don't like about Japan is the political and criminal justice system. This is beginning to annoy Japanese people, too, though, so the era of their third-world criminal justice system is probably coming to an end. Maybe they will get rid of the rich career politicians too, although even the US can't figure that one out :)
(Looks like they finally have the concept of a "trial by peers" now, although it's not quite like the common-law system. Better than "you're guilty because some judge thinks so", however.)
I happened to work at a big-business cubicle farm (or kind of) in Tokyo, but there is no such obligatory parties. I have heard of that kind of stories but they are almost caricaturized and exaggerated. If any, he was just unlucky about it.
However I agree about smoking. That's so pervasive and annoying. But I found our situation better than some of south European countries, and smoking in public space is being illegalized.
It's totally okay for him to moan as he likes, but of course, don't take it as he writes.
But, yes, on my end, working in a small company in Kyoto, it was not as extreme. There were of course a few parties, but not much more than in Europe or the US...
One thing though, when I first started work there, the thing that chocked me is that nobody left work at 7pm (our official work time was 10am to 7pm). They just kept on working as if being the first one out was a bad thing (and indeed I've had comments from my coworkers to that effect later on when I started to make an habit of leaving on time).
For the rest of his rant, I understand where he's coming from and I've sometimes had the same criticisms as him. But now that I don't live in Japan anymore, I miss it and want to eventually move there again... Go figure :-)
This seems like a great description of the meat-free, booze-free, non-comformist working for a big Japanese corporation. Why didn't he leave the country 19,000 words ago?
I doubt that the author is in any of the 'cultural shock' phases, as he starts the article by saying " I've lived in Japan for a long time ". Nevertheless, anybody living in foreign country with a different culture faces the trade-off between preserving their previous 'ways-of-doing' (cultural values, ways of behaving under various circumstances, etc.) and adjusting to the new culture (thus, changing yourself to some extent). So the office culture of Japan only seems to be one of these instances in the case of the author, and it also confirms what I've known about Japan.
<i> "Why not "Tim-san"? I'm required to put "san" on the end of their names. " </i>
From what I've heard (I've never been to Japan), Japanese don't attach '-san' to foreigners names'. But I have to say, I liked this :) - <i> " - ... This is just how we do things in Japan, Tim. - Well, [Name-removed]-san, you can try putting 'san' on the end of my fucking name from now on, then, you know, as practice. " </i>
As to the other complaints: rose-tinted glasses looking back to "the good old days", plus a bit of culture shock. It's a frickin' different culture, of course you're not going to understand / go along with it perfectly.
I'll fully grant that some of the cultural habits are downright dangerous (not merely creepy), but every culture has that. Sounds like he's merely found out recently that Japan isn't some holy grail location like he seems to have thought it was, and is merely a location on Earth.
Whenever someone criticises Japan, I'm always reminded of a comment I heard years ago that stuck with me.
"If Japan changed to be exactly what you want, you wouldn't have come here in the first place."
For example, he complained a lot about the Japanese greeting "You're tired". About how it doesn't make sense.
However, to many Japanese, it is just a way of saying "hi".
Dude, a Japanese coming to US will complain about the greeting "What's up" being so freaking weird and rude.
Yeah, the sky is up!
But my final thought was "really, he's a vegetarian and he picked Japan as his place to go?" I was talking this article over tonight with some friends over a bowl of Sujabi http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sujebi, which could be vegetarian-ish, but like most things in Asia, never really are. It had clams in it, and the broth was boiled out of cow bones or sardines or something. I've yet to encounter some food in East Asia that didn't have some kind of animal product in it.
(incidentally did anyone else struggle to read the start of this article - it didnt flow very well)
The problem is that the author didn't make a cogent point and back it up. Instead he started off with a lot of excuse-making, then went into a list, but kept deviating from the list to talk about video games (which, I guess, should have been the topic?)
It had the feeling of a long list of grievances strewn together, ranted about, and then tacked on to a couple of other conversations.
The strength of the article was in the negative first-person impressions of Japanese culture. He should have stuck with that, cut out the apologizing and made that just a sentence or two at the end. Then he should have tightened the hell out of the prose and tried to make some kind of thesis that his stories supported.
Other that that, the first-person stuff was good. But damn -- this guy is an editor? The structure is a mess.
At one point he even admits how bad it is -- and then continues on in the death march towards the end.
Aha it makes a little more sense now. Editors are usually poor writers/reporters - their skill set is different (which doesn't excuse the fact he clearly never copy-edited what he wrote)
Got to hand it to him on the comedy shows, though, they're awful.
Until you can fight a live octopus down your throat between puffs on a cig, and wash it all down with a gallon of beer, you can't be fun.
It's the same way with irrashaimase; it's a self-deprecating phrase (and Japanese does indeed have a lot of them), but it's a stock phrase, and that's how people use it. Similarly, a lot of our exclamations have origins in words, even if we've forgotten them. For instance, why do we say "ow" instead of "ai", or simply "aa"? "Ow" is significantly more complicated physically than simply "aa!"ing. Other cultures say different things for exclamations, even "spontaneous" things like pain, and that's normal. Getting uppity about it isn't.
god...
edit - that's not entirely true, I got about 1/10th of the way through and realised I could do more constructive things with my time.