Doesn't this depend on what you mean by 'solve'? If you really want the single best solution, you're stuck with checking all N! solutions. If you want a solution which merely works pretty well almost all of the time, then you're right, there are many polynomial time solutions.
I wasn't able to read the Scientific American article that the author ranted against, but if it's discussing TSP from a mathematical standpoint, I wouldn't fault them for discussing the feasibility of checking all N! permutations... that's exactly how it was discussed to me in my introductory computation classes.