How a Car Engine Works
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Get a car (mine arrived as a pile of junk on a flatbed), some tools, and start turning wrenches. It's not that hard, and I (and a couple friends) had a heluva good time. I suspect an account of that helped me get into engineering college.
My only regret is I ran across a '68 Chevy SS for $600 that I passed on.
I learned entirely by wrenching on my own car. Engine internals and transmissions are hard simply because you often need specialized tools. But there are plenty of parts you can fix yourself with only simple tools.
The main challenge now is that newer cars have a lot more complex components. Back in the '70s you could completely disassemble and refurbish a carburator. Fuel injection systems are a lot more complex. However, a lot of the systems on newer cars are still pretty basic.
One of the benefits of knowing how to work on cars is saving money. I fixed my wifes car (emissions failure) with a $12 part from ebay when a garage wanted $150 just to diagnose. And if you do have a garage work on your car, explaining what's wrong in way that makes you sound knowledgeable goes a long way to prevent being ripped off.
All you need is the ability to read, the desire to learn, the courage to get your hands dirty and not be afraid of breaking things, and some mechanical aptitude. And a little money to spend at Harbor Freight for some tools.
What's weird is my wife actually managed to get the car restarted after a while, and drove home that way!! It was making a terrible tapping noise though. I'm not sure how it was running that way; I didn't investigate too closely. This was a 2000 Acura Integra GS-R, by the way.
Anyway, I left everything alone in the other 3 cylinders because that all looked fine, and I replaced the piston, rod, and journal bearings on the bent one. I also replaced all 4 valves. It wasn't really that hard; I took the head and new valves and valve seals to a shop that specialized in rebuilding cylinder heads and they cleaned it up (it already had close to 100k miles at that point, so there was a lot of carbon build-up) and replaced the valves. They also put together the piston and con-rod for me as I didn't have a press for that. Then I just did the standard bore honing and put it all back together (and cleaned up the domes of the other pistons while I was at it). Worked great after that. The total cost wasn't much either; the bare parts only came out to a few hundred IIRC, from one of those online OEM parts sellers, and the shop work was $250 IIRC. The only specialized tools I needed were torque wrenches (which you should have anyway, but they're absolutely critical for engine work), and an air impact wrench (the crankshaft pulley bolt on that car was a real bear), and a drill-operated bore hone (cheap).
The manual showed a picture of a guy using a foot long breaker bar. What a joke.
I have a breaker bar, but I haven't used it ever since I got an impact wrench. You can put a lot more torque on a bolt with a handheld impact wrench than you can with a giant breaker bar; they're really a quite remarkable invention when you think about it. The one I have (1/2in drive Ingersoll-Rand titanium body) has 1000 ft-lb IIRC.
I have removed every rolling part of my ATV. It's quite strange to go 65MPH knowing that you put all the parts together... I am still alive so far, ha. :)
I am all about finding the original parts that the dealer will sell, but on the aftermarket at reasonable prices.
What still troubles me is passing my bi-annual smog checks. It's not just my vechicle, it's family members vechicles.
I can check most of the smog components, except the catalytic converter.(I found away around checking the catalytic converter, but won't divulge, because it might be illegial.)
The one tool I might buy if the price was reasonable is a device that measures the emmissions out of the tailpipe. I think there's a big need for portable emmission testers. The price point would need to be around $300 for my taste. I don't know if it's even possible at that price point? I'm basically just concerned with HC's.
In order to pass emmission standards, I make sure the engine is running reasonably well. I change the oil. I check all ERG. I make sure that cat is hot. I then check the voltage off one of the O2 sensors(gotta pick the right on, and be quick with the voltage measurement. The computer will throw things off pretty quick with the wrong O2 sensor dissabled.) With the 0-5 volts you read you can get a good idea of the stoichiometric burn of the gasses. You can detect wether the vechicle is running rich, or lean, but it's not fool proof.
Even with preparation, it's hit it miss whether a vechicle passes smog.
I would love to gave a home devise that measured these gasses.
I'll pass this along. All Smog shops are in CA are required to have onsite one Emission manual to show the customer.
Good shops have two references. They look at this information when they do the visual examination. Good shops usuall have Motor Emmissions for the current year, and a subscription to Mitchell Manuals. A subscription to Mitchell manuals(OnDemand5) is more money than the Motor Emission publication, but it's hardly ever Wrong.
If you fail the visual on a smog test, ask to see the refrence material they used to fail you. If it's a Motor Publication--the information might be wrong. It's filled with many errors. Most shops cheap it out and only buying the cheaper Emission manual. The Motor Emission manual is joked about among Smog Techs. They know it's filled with errors.
I kinda went on, but frustrated from dealing with a recent smog check.
When you say the "right" O2 sensor I presume you're talking about the one after the cat? Doesn't that mainly tell you whether the cat is working or not? If the engine is running a bit rich and there is a bit of excess fuel coming into the cat, the cat should burn it up, I think.
And you probably know this, but there is an important difference in the voltage readings depending on whether you have wide- or narrow-band O2 sensors. Wideband is typically for performance cars.
$30 is way too expensive btw. On aliexpress i bought a wifi (because of iphone) dongle for $9,99 incl shipment.
Plus it just looks more like an Apple product and less like their mom's shitty Camry they grew up being to school in.
Lexus has been known to make things deliberately difficult to reach, like putting the starter motor in a place where getting to it involves disassembling most of what's on top of the engine (requiring the replacement of lots of auxillary "soft" parts like gaskets and o-rings in the process):
http://www.lextreme.com/starter.html
In comparison, most other makes and models mount the starter motor somewhere on the side of the engine or transmission where getting to it doesn't require disassembling much else.
PS - I drove a manual transmission Mazda truck that had no starter for 8 months. Thankfully, I live in a mountainous region, so "push starting" the vehicle by using a hill was "easy" (except when it wasn't).
I found I can't even rotate the tires on my current car (Sonata) because it's got no central jack point. Seems to be designed just for shops that can lift all 4 jack points at once. :-(
Most engine covers pop off without even using any tools.
Parts are still readily available, though anything that moves under its own power is likely to sell for more than it did new (which wasn't much in today's dollars). But you'll get smiles and waves anywhere you go whether you end up in a Bug or a Bus.
You're right in that the best way to learn is to do.
But the most annoying detail is showing a distributor on a fuel injected engine. Come on, this isn't 1986, at least show us a dual coil pack wasted spark system.
I mean, get real, anyone capable of understanding injector dwell is probably not clicking that link. It's not for the likes of you and me. What's next, go leave comments on the "Idiot's Guide to How Computers Work" about how it's not complete if they don't explain pointers?
It's also a good way to work because since it's so easy to grasp those advanced concepts from the basics, you don't have to waste precious resources trying to illustrate everything. A wikipedia page, or a journal article description will be enough, which is just quick and cheap text.
Are you trying to teach theory or real-world mechanics?
No engine in any car in the world has electrically actuated valves, except for a handful of prototype test mules such as one by Koenigsegg in Sweden. Everyone's still using "mechanical contraptions with cams", so it's pretty important to teach that, because any engine you look at will be made that way, and the design of the camshafts (and any support components, such as a variable-vale-timing mechanism) is critical to the engine performance.
>The benefit of the computer controlled system is of course you have more flexibility and have the ability to integrate data from various sensors to achieve some kind of "optimal" injection volume.
Yeah, that's great, but you might as well be talking about Moon colonies. It's sci-fi at this point. It may come in the near future, it may not; we might end up just skipping it in favor of EVs.
However, distributors by now are truly obsolete. I don't think any cars have them any more; they've all gone to coil-on-plug systems. Distributors aren't quite that old; there were still cars being made with them about 15 years ago, but those were the last holdouts. So I don't see the point in showing the distributor as is done on this site: it's simpler and easier to just show the spark plugs by themselves firing at the appropriate time, perhaps with some wires shown connected to the ECU.
It's a bit odd too, because aside from the distributor, this guy's illustrations seem to show a fairly modern engine, though he's omitted the variable-valve timing system that most modern cars have now. Notice that the fuel injector is squirting fuel directly into the cylinder: that's called "GDI", or gasoline direct injection. It's become pretty common these days (I think some Kias and Hyundais have been holding out on it), but go back just 5 years and not that many cars had it, and go back 10 years and it was pretty much none. Of course, like distributorless ignition, GDI is simpler in concept, though technically more difficult to accomplish reliably (the fuel pressure is much higher for one thing), as the old way had injectors shooting fuel into the intake plenum before it got sucked into the engine.
My only other complaint about this site is that they left out the V-12 configuration. There's still plenty of Ferraris that have those.
It was just an example, I don't actually know what I'm talking about :) But it was my understanding that electronic fuel injection involves solenoids to, well, control fuel injection (as seen here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_injection#EFI_gasoline_en... ).
The point is that conveying the operating principles should be the main goal, if you call that "theory" or "practical info", it doesn't matter -- if you don't understand the basics well the practical (or theoretical) details will escape you.
Your suggestion about getting rid of distributors sounds reasonable.
I swear some people just cant appreciate simplicity.
Omitting it leads to a big hole in the reader's understanding, since the accelerator pedal is likely their only method of interacting with an engine.
"I’m obsessed with solid, hiqh-quality research and design presentation. If you’re gonna do something you might as well do it RIGHT. Right?"
0: http://blog.caranddriver.com/koenigseggs-camshaft-less-engin...
They've been working on camless valve actuation for decades. I read an article about a prototype system back in 1992. The article then said that the power requirements of the solenoids was a big problem. I'm not sure what the problem is these days. As you noted, Koenigsegg has a working prototype in an actual car (not on a test stand, connected to mains power, like the one in the article in 1992), and it seems to work fine. There's probably some kind of problems with reliability.
This isn't as bad as you might think, because of the nature of springs. When the valve closes again, most of the energy spent compressing the spring is returned to the engine!
The alternative is to just not design for high RPM; the most efficient internal combustion engines are huge low-speed two-stroke diesels used for ships and stationary generators.
Then again a single piston in the marine engine weighs 2x of an entire car so they can easily do things that one wouldn't bother to do on a smaller engine.
No, they don't. 750rpm is pretty typical these days. They'll idle at higher speeds when cold, though, to warm up faster.
Yes, reliability is probably the issue. However, the same could have been said about EFI back in the day.
Full camless engine design is something we may only see in high-end racing and supercar applications for while yet.
Back in 1992, making an electric car like the Tesla probably wouldn't have worked out too well. Instead of an electronically driven induction motor (or a 3-phase brushless motor as some other vehicles probably use, also electronically commutated), they would have had to use a brushed DC motor which isn't so great for longevity or efficiency, because the electronics needed for the better motors would have been too expensive, bulky, and inefficient. Now, DC brushed motors are all but obsolete except for small, cheap applications like <$50 power tools.
The same might have been an issue with those camless valves: actuating those solenoids precisely probably required some serious power electronics capable of supplying and switching high currents at very high speeds. Modern power electronics are good at that now.
I wonder if one problem isn't control of the valve speed. If the solenoid is moving too fast, that'll wear the valve seat much faster (in a regular cam engine, the valves don't shut that quickly at low rpms because the valve profile prevents it). In a cam-less engine, the solenoids would effectively be going full speed all the time, meaning more valve seat wear from slamming shut so hard. This makes tuning engines easier perhaps (more digital-like operation: on/off), but increased wear is bad for something you want to last for hundreds of thousands of miles with no service. So they might be looking for a way to control the actuation speed of the valves, and vary it with engine speed as cams do now. That means even more complex power electronics.
I was referring to full-on solenoid control of valves without needing cams at all.
And, inevitably, the Jam Handy / Chevrolet film on engines.[2] There's a whole series of these, with ones for suspensions, transmissions, differentials, lubrication, and frames.
I've never enjoyed reading about them. So, I've never tried learning much about them. It also takes alot of time.
I wish there were more of these type of animated illustration. I've scanned it for a few minutes and I grasped the concept it was trying to show me relatively faster than anything I've ever encountered.
1. The intake stroke piston movement may be considered to be caused by gravity and/or atmospheric pressure
2. The power stroke piston movement may be considered to be caused by gravity and/or atmospheric pressure and/or the expansion due to explosion all taken together
Correct me if I am wrong.
But what baffles me is this: what causes the piston movement during the compression stroke and exhaust stroke? Any expert here to enlighten me on this?
edit: typo
Also keep in mind that this single piston engine is two-stroke and not four as in the article.
Back to four stroke engines: Momentum and the firing of other pistons keeps the whole thing cycling back around. The more pistons you have, the more there are firing between each revolution of a given piston (and thus overcoming resistance and supplementing that momentum) and thus the more power available to drive the vehicle.
> Back to four stroke engines: Momentum and the firing of other pistons keeps the whole thing cycling back around
The firing of other pistons helps, but really, momentum alone is sufficient. There are tons of single-cylinder, 4 stroke motorcycle, scooter, and off-highway engines out there.
As for the answers parallel to mine that say it's the mass of the other pistons, the mass of a piston is trivial in comparison to that of the flywheel. Even lawn mowers mentioned in one example have flywheels (at least the ones I owned always did). The mass of a tiny lawn mower piston is going to have a hard time against the relatively large mass of a lawn mower blade with no flywheel.
To speak to your two points: 1. My motorcycle's pistons lie on their sides, gravity has no practical effect.
2. Power stroke movement is caused by the expansion of burning gases, period. All other factors, such as flywheel inertia, contribute relatively minimally.
Initially, a secondary motor causes the rotating components to rotate, which causes the pistons to move in the cylinder. Later, either inertia or the power stroke from another cylinder maintains the rotation.
The piston movement itself is caused by the piston arm, which is offset from the axis of the crank shaft.
I think we'll move fairly smoothly from ICEs to electric vehicles without significant commercialization of alternate designs.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Commer_TS3
Here's an animation of one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGaISFg_ZIw
There's videos of these running on YouTube, they have a very distinctive sound like other 2-stroke diesels.
The big advantage is center of gravity: their shape lets them sit basically flat, near the ground, and since engines are the heaviest part of a car, this gives the car a lower center of gravity, which is good for handling.
The main disadvantage is mechanical complexity: instead of all the cylinders lined up in a row, with the crankshaft on one side and the valves and dual cams on the other, you have two banks of pistons, each with their own camshafts. So now instead of two camshafts, two camshaft gears, and one timing belt/chain, you need double all those. This of course increases cost too.
Flat-fours also tend to have rather distinctive exhaust notes, which not everyone finds pleasing.
Another notable place flat-4 engines are used is in small aircraft. Lycoming and Continental engines for small (e.g. Cessna) airplanes and helicopters are all flat-4.
On the cost issue, Porsche famously tried to cut costs for the 996/Boxster gen 1 by using a common cylinder head casting for both sides. This was done by flipping it over for the other side. The only problem with this was providing the drive for the camshaft from the rear of the engine. To do this, they created an intermediate shaft operating at the rear of the engine. This worked ok but it couldn't have an oil fed bearing, so they used a roller bearing. This caused a failure rate if something like 5% of engines, and caused a class action suit that Porsche had to settle.
The other advantage of boxer engines is their suitability for air cooling and packaging. In fact, Porsche produced an aircraft version of the flat 6 but it ended up being too exprensive to build and run, despite outperforming a lycoming by a long way.
OTOH, no inline six, which is the platonic ideal of the ICE.
As such, I can't up vote this.
Although flat 6 is missing too...