I'm sympathetic to the problem. What with increasing reliance on IDE assistance (and I'm guilty of this) I can easily imaging feeling overwhelmed with just a sheet of white in front of me.
I've tried to do thing mostly verbally, testing their underlying understanding of CS concepts, and hoping this is a decent proxy for development ability.
If you design the questions carefully, the way the applicant answers tells as much as the fact that it's right or wrong.
For example, in a C tech interview I'd ask what you need to if you want to pass variables into a function, and have the function change those values for you. There are a range of correct answers from "put an ampersand in front of the variable" to "call by reference rather than call by value", and these shows different levels of understanding.
I also liked to ask about what the difference between single quotes and double quotes were. A simple correct answer is "one's a character, the other is a string", but somebody who really gets C would tell me that one will lead to the generation of an integer value, while the other results in a pointer.
So it's not just right/wrong, it's shades in between. With some careful design, you can ask questions that tell a lot about how well somebody understand programming.
But occasionally I'd bump into somebody who just couldn't get any of my questions at all, and I'd feel really bad as I tried to think of something simple enough that they wouldn't feel completely awful.