And, by the way, it's not like there's no css at all in the source. It's just UX-ignorant, so to say.
The author seems to have concerns for UX because his page isn't just HTML. He put some CSS on the nav header, used some HTML5 semantic elements, some Aria roles, and added a viewport header element for mobile scaling. Sadly his concerns were passing as 1/3 of his CSS is rendered moot, and his desire for a semantic page was abandoned quickly after implementing his navigation and footer.
His page's UX is improved dramatically by adding 2 simple CSS rules (margin, max-width). If those rules add too many bytes to the page he could convert his navigation divs to a proper unorder list and get some bytes back and make his page more semantic to boot.
His page is just a drive by attempt at standards and it's lazy.