OH! I FOUND IT! it's a little small button under the register form!
I love how Evernote has managed to seamlessly combine the stupid web design tropes of 1) the hidden log-in form and 2) the incomprehensible hamburger. They've got a little something for everyone to hate. It's certainly not just them, though. My own employer's public website just hid all of its useful links behind a hamburger (I'm steering clear of the communications department for a while for their safety) and about every three days I start filling out the registration form on Github before realizing it's not the one I want.