I believe this is the origin of that phrase:
http://michaelpollan.com/articles-archive/six-rules-for-eati...
And, well, I don't really know what was meant by it. It decries Twinkies and Vitamin Water, but it also decries yogurt just because it's in a tube. Does shape matter for yogurt?
He exalts fresh produce as the pinnacle of health, yet my great-great-great grandmother would have had extremely limited access to it for most of the year, and probably would not recognize most of the stuff I'm able to buy in the store.
It's not a straw man when you legitimately don't understand what was intended.