High precision air bearing CNC lathe and grinder [video]
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Dan's flexure is so sensitive that radiative heat from his hand moves the end stage 100x more than mechanical input. You could move it by shining a laser pointer at it. Insane.
The final part [2] is also very neat, and starts with a really remarkable demonstration of stiffness.
His Youtube series about "Building Prototypes" looks interesting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMP_AfiNlX4
Here is a bio about Dr. Daniel Gelbart: http://graduation.ubc.ca/event/honorary-degrees/2009-honorar...
I was expecting some sort of laser calibration during cutting but he didn't say anything like that. (i.e. don't make the machine accurate to a micron, just measure accurate to a micron and adjust the cutting real time.)
In finish grinding after your setup the trick is to remove very little per pass so the workpiece does not warm up which would cause it to expand removing too much material. That's why you use coolant and not so much a cutting fluid (this also helps to flush out the residue from the stone and the material being ground). A single pass will remove a fraction of a micrometer (100 to 500 nm) and you count passes.
Another thing to keep in mind is that a lathe with an accuracy of motion of 1u produces workpieces with a diameter accuracy of 2u.
Doing this repeatably is really hard, and doing it in absolute terms is witchcraft of a higher order.
Usually accuracy of a ground product is not only about the diameter or some other dimension of the workpiece but about flatness of the surface or roundness (runout).
It was maddening!
A 4 jaw lathe chuck was my enemy. No way in hell was I ever able to center a part in it.
http://www.starrett.com/metrology/product-detail/Precision-M...
I didn't get that one, $863 is spendy. I got a Russian copy for $150.
Anyhoo, you put that level on the carriage and then crank the carriage back and forth over the range you want straight, adjust the levelers on the legs.
I can turn mild (cold rolled) steel and hold a 10,000 of an inch for almost 5 inches and then it goes to hell. And the head stock bearing is crap, the originals had some preload but the replacements do not so I have to use a live center in the tailstock to put some load on them or it doesn't work.
Watching that video? I'm in awe.
The customers were super interesting, from a lathe that worked gold for watch cases (where the repeat accuracy was probably less important than the degree to which the machine managed to recover the cuttings) to one that turned wheels for harbor cranes and everything in between.
[1] http://www.nortonindustrial.com/DressingTools-BladeTools.asp...
This is why you never ever grind full width. Of course, once you grind long enough that you wear the whole width, game over.
"Creo was sold to Kodak in 2005 for about $1 billion, and I retired from optics a happy man."
It still works without forced air, just not nearly as well. You really need to force the fluid to get the high carrying capacity, or use a higher viscosity fluid so it doesn't get displaced as easily, which is actually how standard ball bearings work. A moving ball bearing has no contact between any metal parts.
In theory. In practice however balls do contact the races and eventually wear them out even when properly lubricated.
This is a very unusual design for a chuck. The overwhelming majority of chucks follow two (or 3-4) designs.